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higbee ends for threads

NH
nop head
Mon, Feb 20, 2023 11:16 PM

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have a
phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a machine
screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have screws where
there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing radius into
the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?  Mine all have
the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut to
length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?  Like I
said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look
like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.  My
correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below the
minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but your
bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already
formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be
completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to
the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and over what
length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that clearly
optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense when
you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl
wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like the
normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat dies.
This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a
screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they cannot
be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down
between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made. Feed
a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then thread
36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e.
length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.  KVK:
27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space
shuttle.


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[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have a phone with me. This is my attempt to model what I see. [image: image.png] On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a machine > screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have screws where > there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing radius into > the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? Mine all have > the shaft beveled. > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut to >> length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end. >> >> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >> >>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? Like I >>> said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>> >>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look >>>> like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>> >>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>> >>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>> >>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. My >>>>> correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below the >>>>>> minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but your >>>>>> bottle example was much less. >>>>>> >>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already >>>>>> formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be >>>>>> completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to >>>>>> the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and over what >>>>>>> length? In both directions or just one? And why is that clearly >>>>>>> optimal. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense when >>>>>>>> you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote: >>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like the >>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat dies. >>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a >>>>>>>>> screw >>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In hindsight >>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they cannot >>>>>>>>> be >>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a big >>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite >>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn one >>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down >>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made. Feed >>>>>>>>> a >>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then thread >>>>>>>>> 36000 >>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing >>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e. >>>>>>>>> length >>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" ) >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: >>>>>>>>> 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going down >>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space >>>>>>>>> shuttle. >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >
AM
Adrian Mariano
Mon, Feb 20, 2023 11:23 PM

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it looks
like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the feature
you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of one
thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and could
produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.  I
inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have a
phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a machine
screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have screws where
there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing radius into
the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?  Mine all have
the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut to
length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?  Like I
said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look
like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.  My
correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below the
minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but your
bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already
formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be
completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to
the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and over
what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that clearly
optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense when
you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl
wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like the
normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat dies.
This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a
screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they cannot
be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down
between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made.
Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then thread
36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e.
length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.  KVK:
27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going
down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space
shuttle.


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To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org


OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org


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To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org


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To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org


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To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org


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To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org


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The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the feature you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going on. On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] > That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have a > phone with me. > > This is my attempt to model what I see. > > [image: image.png] > > > > > > On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > >> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a machine >> screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have screws where >> there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing radius into >> the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? Mine all have >> the shaft beveled. >> >> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut to >>> length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end. >>> >>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>> >>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? Like I >>>> said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>> >>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look >>>>> like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. My >>>>>> correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below the >>>>>>> minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but your >>>>>>> bottle example was much less. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already >>>>>>> formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be >>>>>>> completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to >>>>>>> the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and over >>>>>>>> what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that clearly >>>>>>>> optimal. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense when >>>>>>>>> you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote: >>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like the >>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat dies. >>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a >>>>>>>>>> screw >>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they cannot >>>>>>>>>> be >>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a big >>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite >>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn one >>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down >>>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made. >>>>>>>>>> Feed a >>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then thread >>>>>>>>>> 36000 >>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing >>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e. >>>>>>>>>> length >>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" ) >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: >>>>>>>>>> 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going >>>>>>>>>> down >>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space >>>>>>>>>> shuttle. >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >
NH
nop head
Mon, Feb 20, 2023 11:30 PM

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where
the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is
smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it looks
like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the feature
you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of one
thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and could
produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.  I
inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have a
phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a machine
screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have screws where
there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing radius into
the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?  Mine all have
the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut to
length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?  Like I
said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look
like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.  My
correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below
the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but
your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already
formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be
completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to
the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and over
what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that clearly
optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense when
you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like the
normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat dies.
This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a
screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they
cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a
big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down
between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made.
Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then thread
36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e.
length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.  KVK:
27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going
down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space
shuttle.


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The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is smaller in the photo. Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. [image: image.png] On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it looks > like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the feature > you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of one > thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and could > produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. I > inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going > on. > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > >> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have a >> phone with me. >> >> This is my attempt to model what I see. >> >> [image: image.png] >> >> >> >> >> >> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >> >>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a machine >>> screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have screws where >>> there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing radius into >>> the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? Mine all have >>> the shaft beveled. >>> >>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut to >>>> length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end. >>>> >>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>> >>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? Like I >>>>> said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look >>>>>> like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. My >>>>>>> correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below >>>>>>>> the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but >>>>>>>> your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already >>>>>>>> formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be >>>>>>>> completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to >>>>>>>> the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and over >>>>>>>>> what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that clearly >>>>>>>>> optimal. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense when >>>>>>>>>> you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like the >>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat dies. >>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a >>>>>>>>>>> screw >>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they >>>>>>>>>>> cannot be >>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a >>>>>>>>>>> big >>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite >>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn one >>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down >>>>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made. >>>>>>>>>>> Feed a >>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then thread >>>>>>>>>>> 36000 >>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing >>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e. >>>>>>>>>>> length >>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" ) >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: >>>>>>>>>>> 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going >>>>>>>>>>> down >>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space >>>>>>>>>>> shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >
NH
nop head
Mon, Feb 20, 2023 11:39 PM

Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there
was daylight,

[image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where
the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is
smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it looks
like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the feature
you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of one
thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and could
produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.  I
inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have
a phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a
machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have
screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing
radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?
Mine all have the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut
to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?  Like I
said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look
like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.  My
correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below
the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but
your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already
formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be
completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to
the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and over
what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that clearly
optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense
when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like

the

normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat

dies.

This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a
screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they
cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a
big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down
between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made.
Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then
thread 36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e.
length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.  KVK:
27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going
down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the
space shuttle.


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Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there was daylight, [image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg] On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where > the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is > smaller in the photo. > > Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. > > [image: image.png] > > On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > >> The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it looks >> like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the feature >> you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of one >> thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and could >> produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. I >> inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going >> on. >> >> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >>> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have >>> a phone with me. >>> >>> This is my attempt to model what I see. >>> >>> [image: image.png] >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>> >>>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a >>>> machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have >>>> screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing >>>> radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? >>>> Mine all have the shaft beveled. >>>> >>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut >>>>> to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end. >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? Like I >>>>>> said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws look >>>>>>> like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. My >>>>>>>> correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below >>>>>>>>> the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but >>>>>>>>> your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already >>>>>>>>> formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be >>>>>>>>> completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to >>>>>>>>> the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and over >>>>>>>>>> what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that clearly >>>>>>>>>> optimal. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense >>>>>>>>>>> when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like >>>>>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat >>>>>>>>>>>> dies. >>>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a >>>>>>>>>>>> screw >>>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they >>>>>>>>>>>> cannot be >>>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a >>>>>>>>>>>> big >>>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite >>>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn one >>>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down >>>>>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made. >>>>>>>>>>>> Feed a >>>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then >>>>>>>>>>>> thread 36000 >>>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing >>>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e. >>>>>>>>>>>> length >>>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" ) >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: >>>>>>>>>>>> 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going >>>>>>>>>>>> down >>>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the >>>>>>>>>>>> space shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> >
AM
Adrian Mariano
Tue, Feb 21, 2023 12:42 AM

I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of
beveling is wrong.  It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several
threads.  The bevel only hits one thread most of the time.  Beveling looks
a lot like your second pic.  Here is beveling.  It looks sort of like a
decreasing crest height, but it is something different.  (Now that I think
about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is.  You think you
have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same
width?  How would that be manufactured?)

[image: image.png]

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there
was daylight,

[image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where
the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is
smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it
looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the
feature you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of
one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and
could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.
I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have
a phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a
machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have
screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing
radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?
Mine all have the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut
to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?  Like I
said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws
look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.  My
correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below
the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but
your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already
formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be
completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to
the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and over
what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that clearly
optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense
when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like

the

normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat

dies.

This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a
screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they
cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a
big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down
between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made.
Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then
thread 36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e.
length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.  KVK:
27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going
down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the
space shuttle.


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I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of beveling is wrong. It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several threads. The bevel only hits one thread most of the time. Beveling looks a lot like your second pic. Here is beveling. It looks sort of like a decreasing crest height, but it is something different. (Now that I think about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is. You think you have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same width? How would that be manufactured?) [image: image.png] On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there > was daylight, > > [image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg] > > On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > >> The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where >> the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is >> smaller in the photo. >> >> Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. >> >> [image: image.png] >> >> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >> >>> The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it >>> looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the >>> feature you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of >>> one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and >>> could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. >>> I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going >>> on. >>> >>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >>>> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only have >>>> a phone with me. >>>> >>>> This is my attempt to model what I see. >>>> >>>> [image: image.png] >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a >>>>> machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have >>>>> screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing >>>>> radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? >>>>> Mine all have the shaft beveled. >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut >>>>>> to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? Like I >>>>>>> said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws >>>>>>>> look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>>>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. My >>>>>>>>> correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below >>>>>>>>>> the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but >>>>>>>>>> your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already >>>>>>>>>> formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be >>>>>>>>>> completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to >>>>>>>>>> the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and over >>>>>>>>>>> what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that clearly >>>>>>>>>>> optimal. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense >>>>>>>>>>>> when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like >>>>>>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat >>>>>>>>>>>>> dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of a >>>>>>>>>>>>> screw >>>>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they >>>>>>>>>>>>> cannot be >>>>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a screw. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of a >>>>>>>>>>>>> big >>>>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in opposite >>>>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn one >>>>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down >>>>>>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made. >>>>>>>>>>>>> Feed a >>>>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then >>>>>>>>>>>>> thread 36000 >>>>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by knowing >>>>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies (i.e. >>>>>>>>>>>>> length >>>>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" ) >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: >>>>>>>>>>>>> 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going >>>>>>>>>>>>> down >>>>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the >>>>>>>>>>>>> space shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >
NH
nop head
Tue, Feb 21, 2023 1:08 AM

It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider
part is below the surface.

Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The
picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and
multistarts.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of
beveling is wrong.  It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several
threads.  The bevel only hits one thread most of the time.  Beveling looks
a lot like your second pic.  Here is beveling.  It looks sort of like a
decreasing crest height, but it is something different.  (Now that I think
about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is.  You think you
have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same
width?  How would that be manufactured?)

[image: image.png]

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there
was daylight,

[image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where
the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is
smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it
looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the
feature you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of
one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and
could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.
I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only
have a phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a
machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have
screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing
radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?
Mine all have the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut
to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?  Like
I said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws
look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.  My
correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below
the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but
your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already
formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be
completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to
the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and over
what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that clearly
optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense
when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano
wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like

the

normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat

dies.

This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of
a screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they
cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a
screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of
a big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in
opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn
one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down
between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made.
Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then
thread 36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by
knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies
(i.e. length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.  KVK:
27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is
going down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the
space shuttle.


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It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider part is below the surface. Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and multistarts. On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of > beveling is wrong. It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several > threads. The bevel only hits one thread most of the time. Beveling looks > a lot like your second pic. Here is beveling. It looks sort of like a > decreasing crest height, but it is something different. (Now that I think > about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is. You think you > have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same > width? How would that be manufactured?) > > [image: image.png] > > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there >> was daylight, >> >> [image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg] >> >> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just where >>> the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the diameter is >>> smaller in the photo. >>> >>> Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. >>> >>> [image: image.png] >>> >>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>> >>>> The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it >>>> looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the >>>> feature you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of >>>> one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and >>>> could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. >>>> I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going >>>> on. >>>> >>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >>>>> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only >>>>> have a phone with me. >>>>> >>>>> This is my attempt to model what I see. >>>>> >>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a >>>>>> machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have >>>>>> screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing >>>>>> radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? >>>>>> Mine all have the shaft beveled. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding cut >>>>>>> to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee end. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? Like >>>>>>>> I said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws >>>>>>>>> look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>>>>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. My >>>>>>>>>> correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is below >>>>>>>>>>> the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn but >>>>>>>>>>> your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already >>>>>>>>>>> formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be >>>>>>>>>>> completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to >>>>>>>>>>> the tool radius. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and over >>>>>>>>>>>> what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that clearly >>>>>>>>>>>> optimal. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense >>>>>>>>>>>>> when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano >>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds like >>>>>>>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat >>>>>>>>>>>>>> dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of >>>>>>>>>>>>>> a screw >>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they >>>>>>>>>>>>>> cannot be >>>>>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a >>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of >>>>>>>>>>>>>> a big >>>>>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in >>>>>>>>>>>>>> opposite >>>>>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn >>>>>>>>>>>>>> one >>>>>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down >>>>>>>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been made. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Feed a >>>>>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then >>>>>>>>>>>>>> thread 36000 >>>>>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by >>>>>>>>>>>>>> knowing >>>>>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies >>>>>>>>>>>>>> (i.e. length >>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" ) >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is >>>>>>>>>>>>>> going down >>>>>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the >>>>>>>>>>>>>> space shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >
NH
nop head
Tue, Feb 21, 2023 1:10 AM

To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a
taper at the bottom.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider
part is below the surface.

Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The
picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and
multistarts.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of
beveling is wrong.  It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several
threads.  The bevel only hits one thread most of the time.  Beveling looks
a lot like your second pic.  Here is beveling.  It looks sort of like a
decreasing crest height, but it is something different.  (Now that I think
about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is.  You think you
have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same
width?  How would that be manufactured?)

[image: image.png]

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there
was daylight,

[image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just
where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the
diameter is smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it
looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the
feature you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of
one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and
could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.
I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only
have a phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a
machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have
screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing
radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?
Mine all have the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding
cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee
end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?  Like
I said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws
look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.  My
correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is
below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn
but your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already
formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be
completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to
the tool radius. See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and
over what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that
clearly optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense
when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano
wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds

like the

normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat

dies.

This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of
a screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they
cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a
screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of
a big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in
opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn
one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down
between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been
made. Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then
thread 36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by
knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies
(i.e. length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw"
)

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.  KVK:
27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is
going down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the
space shuttle.


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To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a taper at the bottom. On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider > part is below the surface. > > Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The > picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and > multistarts. > > On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > >> I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of >> beveling is wrong. It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several >> threads. The bevel only hits one thread most of the time. Beveling looks >> a lot like your second pic. Here is beveling. It looks sort of like a >> decreasing crest height, but it is something different. (Now that I think >> about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is. You think you >> have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same >> width? How would that be manufactured?) >> >> [image: image.png] >> >> >> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when there >>> was daylight, >>> >>> [image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg] >>> >>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just >>>> where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the >>>> diameter is smaller in the photo. >>>> >>>> Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. >>>> >>>> [image: image.png] >>>> >>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>> >>>>> The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it >>>>> looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the >>>>> feature you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of >>>>> one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and >>>>> could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. >>>>> I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going >>>>> on. >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >>>>>> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only >>>>>> have a phone with me. >>>>>> >>>>>> This is my attempt to model what I see. >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a >>>>>>> machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have >>>>>>> screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing >>>>>>> radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? >>>>>>> Mine all have the shaft beveled. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding >>>>>>>> cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee >>>>>>>> end. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? Like >>>>>>>>> I said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws >>>>>>>>>> look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>>>>>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. My >>>>>>>>>>> correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is >>>>>>>>>>>> below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn >>>>>>>>>>>> but your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is already >>>>>>>>>>>> formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually or be >>>>>>>>>>>> completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp due to >>>>>>>>>>>> the tool radius. See >>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and >>>>>>>>>>>>> over what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that >>>>>>>>>>>>> clearly optimal. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense >>>>>>>>>>>>>> when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a screw >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cannot be >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a big >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> opposite >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops down >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> between >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> made. Feed a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thread 36000 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> knowing >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (i.e. length >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished screw" >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> going down >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> space shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> >
AM
Adrian Mariano
Tue, Feb 21, 2023 1:49 AM

Wouldn't you need a die that had inverse threads that got wider and wider?

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 8:11 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a
taper at the bottom.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider
part is below the surface.

Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The
picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and
multistarts.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of
beveling is wrong.  It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several
threads.  The bevel only hits one thread most of the time.  Beveling looks
a lot like your second pic.  Here is beveling.  It looks sort of like a
decreasing crest height, but it is something different.  (Now that I think
about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is.  You think you
have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same
width?  How would that be manufactured?)

[image: image.png]

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when
there was daylight,

[image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just
where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the
diameter is smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it
looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the
feature you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of
one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and
could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.
I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only
have a phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a
machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have
screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing
radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?
Mine all have the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding
cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee
end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?
Like I said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws
look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something like
this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.
My correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is
below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn
but your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is
already formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually
or be completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp
due to the tool radius. See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and
over what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that
clearly optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense
when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The
optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano
wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds

like the

normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat

dies.

This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape
of a screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they
cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a
screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside
of a big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in
opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then turn
one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops
down between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been
made. Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then
thread 36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by
knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies
(i.e. length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished
screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.
KVK: 27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is
going down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the
space shuttle.


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Wouldn't you need a die that had inverse threads that got wider and wider? On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 8:11 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a > taper at the bottom. > > On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > >> It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider >> part is below the surface. >> >> Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The >> picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and >> multistarts. >> >> On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >> >>> I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of >>> beveling is wrong. It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several >>> threads. The bevel only hits one thread most of the time. Beveling looks >>> a lot like your second pic. Here is beveling. It looks sort of like a >>> decreasing crest height, but it is something different. (Now that I think >>> about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is. You think you >>> have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same >>> width? How would that be manufactured?) >>> >>> [image: image.png] >>> >>> >>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when >>>> there was daylight, >>>> >>>> [image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg] >>>> >>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just >>>>> where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the >>>>> diameter is smaller in the photo. >>>>> >>>>> Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. >>>>> >>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it >>>>>> looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the >>>>>> feature you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of >>>>>> one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and >>>>>> could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. >>>>>> I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going >>>>>> on. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >>>>>>> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only >>>>>>> have a phone with me. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> This is my attempt to model what I see. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a >>>>>>>> machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have >>>>>>>> screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing >>>>>>>> radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? >>>>>>>> Mine all have the shaft beveled. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding >>>>>>>>> cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee >>>>>>>>> end. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? >>>>>>>>>> Like I said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws >>>>>>>>>>> look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something like >>>>>>>>>>>> this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. >>>>>>>>>>>> My correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is >>>>>>>>>>>>> below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn >>>>>>>>>>>>> but your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is >>>>>>>>>>>>> already formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually >>>>>>>>>>>>> or be completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp >>>>>>>>>>>>> due to the tool radius. See >>>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and >>>>>>>>>>>>>> over what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that >>>>>>>>>>>>>> clearly optimal. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes sense >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. The >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print it. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of flat >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of a screw >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cannot be >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of a big >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> opposite >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then turn >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> down between >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> made. Feed a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thread 36000 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> knowing >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (i.e. length >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw" ) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> KVK: 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> going down >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> space shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >
NH
nop head
Tue, Feb 21, 2023 8:29 AM

Yes it would need to get wider so the gap gets smaller.

It would be difficult to make with a lathe or a circular die, hence why I
think higbee exists. You need a rotary tool in the toolpost to make the
abrupt version but the gradual ramp down can be created with a flat nosed
grooving tool on a CNC lathe.

I have a CNC lathe at my summer residence so I might have a go sometime.
The last thread I CNC cut I started with a chamfer before single point
threading. But with a chamfer you get a thin edge where the chamfer
intersects the threads crest.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:51, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

Wouldn't you need a die that had inverse threads that got wider and
wider?

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 8:11 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a
taper at the bottom.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider
part is below the surface.

Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The
picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and
multistarts.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of
beveling is wrong.  It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several
threads.  The bevel only hits one thread most of the time.  Beveling looks
a lot like your second pic.  Here is beveling.  It looks sort of like a
decreasing crest height, but it is something different.  (Now that I think
about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is.  You think you
have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same
width?  How would that be manufactured?)

[image: image.png]

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when
there was daylight,

[image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just
where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the
diameter is smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it
looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the
feature you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of
one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and
could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.
I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only
have a phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a
machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have
screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing
radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?
Mine all have the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding
cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee
end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?
Like I said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws
look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something
like this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.
My correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is
below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn
but your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is
already formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually
or be completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp
due to the tool radius. See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <
avm4@cornell.edu> wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and
over what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that
clearly optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes
sense when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end.
The optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print
it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano
wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds

like the

normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of

flat dies.

This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape
of a screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they
cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a
screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside
of a big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in
opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then
turn one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops
down between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been
made. Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then
thread 36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by
knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies
(i.e. length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished
screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ **
+31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.
KVK: 27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is
going down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the
space shuttle.


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To unsubscribe send an email to
discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org


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Yes it would need to get wider so the gap gets smaller. It would be difficult to make with a lathe or a circular die, hence why I think higbee exists. You need a rotary tool in the toolpost to make the abrupt version but the gradual ramp down can be created with a flat nosed grooving tool on a CNC lathe. I have a CNC lathe at my summer residence so I might have a go sometime. The last thread I CNC cut I started with a chamfer before single point threading. But with a chamfer you get a thin edge where the chamfer intersects the threads crest. On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:51, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > Wouldn't you need a die that had inverse threads that got wider and > wider? > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 8:11 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > >> To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a >> taper at the bottom. >> >> On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider >>> part is below the surface. >>> >>> Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The >>> picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and >>> multistarts. >>> >>> On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>> >>>> I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image of >>>> beveling is wrong. It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several >>>> threads. The bevel only hits one thread most of the time. Beveling looks >>>> a lot like your second pic. Here is beveling. It looks sort of like a >>>> decreasing crest height, but it is something different. (Now that I think >>>> about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is. You think you >>>> have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same >>>> width? How would that be manufactured?) >>>> >>>> [image: image.png] >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when >>>>> there was daylight, >>>>> >>>>> [image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg] >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just >>>>>> where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the >>>>>> diameter is smaller in the photo. >>>>>> >>>>>> Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it >>>>>>> looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the >>>>>>> feature you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of >>>>>>> one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and >>>>>>> could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. >>>>>>> I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going >>>>>>> on. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >>>>>>>> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only >>>>>>>> have a phone with me. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> This is my attempt to model what I see. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a >>>>>>>>> machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have >>>>>>>>> screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing >>>>>>>>> radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? >>>>>>>>> Mine all have the shaft beveled. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding >>>>>>>>>> cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee >>>>>>>>>> end. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? >>>>>>>>>>> Like I said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine screws >>>>>>>>>>>> look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something >>>>>>>>>>>>> like this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. >>>>>>>>>>>>> My correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>>>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>>>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>>>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>>>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>>>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>>>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>>>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>>>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>>>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>>>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is >>>>>>>>>>>>>> below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn >>>>>>>>>>>>>> but your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is >>>>>>>>>>>>>> already formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually >>>>>>>>>>>>>> or be completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp >>>>>>>>>>>>>> due to the tool radius. See >>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano < >>>>>>>>>>>>>> avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> over what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> clearly optimal. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sense when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flat dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of a screw >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure they >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cannot be >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of a big >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> opposite >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> turn one >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> down between >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> made. Feed a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thread 36000 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> knowing >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (i.e. length >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw" ) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> KVK: 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> going down >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> space shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >
NH
nop head
Tue, Feb 21, 2023 10:14 AM

Actually the die top surfaces would be parallel as the minor diameter
doesn't change. The depth of the groves would have to decrease at the end.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 08:29, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Yes it would need to get wider so the gap gets smaller.

It would be difficult to make with a lathe or a circular die, hence why I
think higbee exists. You need a rotary tool in the toolpost to make the
abrupt version but the gradual ramp down can be created with a flat nosed
grooving tool on a CNC lathe.

I have a CNC lathe at my summer residence so I might have a go sometime.
The last thread I CNC cut I started with a chamfer before single point
threading. But with a chamfer you get a thin edge where the chamfer
intersects the threads crest.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:51, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

Wouldn't you need a die that had inverse threads that got wider and
wider?

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 8:11 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a
taper at the bottom.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider
part is below the surface.

Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The
picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and
multistarts.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:

I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image
of beveling is wrong.  It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several
threads.  The bevel only hits one thread most of the time.  Beveling looks
a lot like your second pic.  Here is beveling.  It looks sort of like a
decreasing crest height, but it is something different.  (Now that I think
about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is.  You think you
have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same
width?  How would that be manufactured?)

[image: image.png]

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when
there was daylight,

[image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:

The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just
where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the
diameter is smaller in the photo.

Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it
looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the
feature you're describing.  Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of
one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and
could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing.
I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going
on.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

[image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg]
That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only
have a phone with me.

This is my attempt to model what I see.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

I've never seen a higbee end either.  But I've also never seen a
machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing.  You have
screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing
radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end?
Mine all have the shaft beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding
cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee
end.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends?
Like I said...mine don't do that.  The end is just beveled.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine
screws look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu
wrote:

So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread?  Something
like this?  I have two views for clarity:

[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn.
My correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a much
shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better.  In fact, I
wonder if really very short is best.  Doesn't the section where the
diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to
crossthread?  It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to
success here:  you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full
thread in the way.  That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as
compared to a more abrupt stop.  On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers
know what they're doing?  Their standard doesn't specify this, but in
their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20
degrees.  My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch
size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head nop.head@gmail.com
wrote:

Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is
below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn
but your bottle example was much less.

Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is
already formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually
or be completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp
due to the tool radius. See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano <
avm4@cornell.edu> wrote:

So "simply tapered" is not well-defined.  Tapered how, and
over what length?  In both directions or just one?  And why is that
clearly optimal.

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head <
nop.head@gmail.com> wrote:

Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes
sense when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end.
The optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print
it.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff <
R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote:

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano
wrote:

I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds

like the

normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of

flat dies.

This process could not make a higbee end.

I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape
of a screw
could be pressed between two dies.

Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In
hindsight
The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure
they cannot be
FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a
screw.

(If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside
of a big
wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in
opposite
directions so that the screws remain stationary.  Then
turn one
slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops
down between
the two big dies after enough of an impression has been
made. Feed a
new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then
thread 36000
screws per hour easily.)

     Roger.

(*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by
knowing
howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies
(i.e. length
of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished
screw" )

--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/
** +31-15-2049110 **
**    Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ  Delft, The Netherlands.
KVK: 27239233    **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is
going down
your a is going up.  -- Chris Hadfield about flying up
the space shuttle.


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Actually the die top surfaces would be parallel as the minor diameter doesn't change. The depth of the groves would have to decrease at the end. On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 08:29, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: > Yes it would need to get wider so the gap gets smaller. > > It would be difficult to make with a lathe or a circular die, hence why I > think higbee exists. You need a rotary tool in the toolpost to make the > abrupt version but the gradual ramp down can be created with a flat nosed > grooving tool on a CNC lathe. > > I have a CNC lathe at my summer residence so I might have a go sometime. > The last thread I CNC cut I started with a chamfer before single point > threading. But with a chamfer you get a thin edge where the chamfer > intersects the threads crest. > > On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:51, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: > >> Wouldn't you need a die that had inverse threads that got wider and >> wider? >> >> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 8:11 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> To manufacture it I assume they press the screw between dies that have a >>> taper at the bottom. >>> >>> On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 01:08, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> It stays the same pitch but the visible width reduces because the wider >>>> part is below the surface. >>>> >>>> Bevelling makes a sharp edge but my screws don't have a sharp edge. The >>>> picture I posted was of leads screws, which do have bevelled ends and >>>> multistarts. >>>> >>>> On Tue, 21 Feb 2023 at 00:43, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I still can't tell what's going on in your pic, but your model image >>>>> of beveling is wrong. It's got a crazy huge bevel that touches several >>>>> threads. The bevel only hits one thread most of the time. Beveling looks >>>>> a lot like your second pic. Here is beveling. It looks sort of like a >>>>> decreasing crest height, but it is something different. (Now that I think >>>>> about it, I'm really not sure what your thread model is. You think you >>>>> have screws where the thread form shrinks in diameter but stays the same >>>>> width? How would that be manufactured?) >>>>> >>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:40 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Here is a slightly better picture of a screw I also took here when >>>>>> there was daylight, >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: IMG_20210115_123701878.jpg] >>>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:30, nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> The last part of the thread tapers down to the minor diameter just >>>>>>> where the screw ends. You can see the crest is still intact but the >>>>>>> diameter is smaller in the photo. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Bevelling removes the crest of the last threads and looks different. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:23, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> The pic is a alas too rubbish for me to tell what' going on, but it >>>>>>>> looks like it might be like my screws, which have a beveled end, not the >>>>>>>> feature you're describing. Note that it's a small bevel, like the size of >>>>>>>> one thread, so it has the effect of cutting off part of the thread and >>>>>>>> could produce the illusion of an intentional taper like you're describing. >>>>>>>> I inspected my screws under 10x magnification to figure out what was going >>>>>>>> on. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:17 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [image: IMG_20230220_230829904.jpg] >>>>>>>>> That is what it looks like to me. Excuse the rubbish photo, I only >>>>>>>>> have a phone with me. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> This is my attempt to model what I see. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 23:06, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I've never seen a higbee end either. But I've also never seen a >>>>>>>>>> machine screw with a tapered thread like you are describing. You have >>>>>>>>>> screws where there is a full thread that gradually disappears by decreasing >>>>>>>>>> radius into the shaft, and it's not because of a small bevel on the end? >>>>>>>>>> Mine all have the shaft beveled. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 6:02 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Yes. The only things I have bevelled are leadscrews and studding >>>>>>>>>>> cut to length that I bevel myself on a grinder. I have never seen a higbee >>>>>>>>>>> end. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:37, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> You have machine screws where the threads taper at the ends? >>>>>>>>>>>> Like I said...mine don't do that. The end is just beveled. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:33 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> I do it over half a turn because that is what my machine >>>>>>>>>>>>> screws look like they do and that is what I am trying to realistically draw. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 22:28, Adrian Mariano <avm4@cornell.edu> >>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> So lineiar decrease in diameter of the thread? Something >>>>>>>>>>>>>> like this? I have two views for clarity: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> [image: image.png] >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Why would you want to extend the taper for a full half-turn. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> My correspondent was a little self-inconsistent, but suggested a *much* >>>>>>>>>>>>>> shorter length, and it seems like a shorter length is better. In fact, I >>>>>>>>>>>>>> wonder if really very short is best. Doesn't the section where the >>>>>>>>>>>>>> diameter of the thread is reduced enable you to hop over it to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> crossthread? It seems like the abrupt end of the threads is the key to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> success here: you can't hop into the next thread because you have a full >>>>>>>>>>>>>> thread in the way. That's why I wonder if tapering is even a good idea as >>>>>>>>>>>>>> compared to a more abrupt stop. On the other hand, maybe the bottle makers >>>>>>>>>>>>>> know what they're doing? Their standard doesn't specify this, but in >>>>>>>>>>>>>> their drawings it looks like about a quarter of a right angle, so ~20 >>>>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. My correspondent seemed to think it should depend on the pitch >>>>>>>>>>>>>> size of the threads, and nothing to do with angle, though. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 5:00 PM nop head <nop.head@gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Tapered by making the thread diameter decrease until it is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> below the minor diameter and disappears. I do it linearly over half a turn >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but your bottle example was much less. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Higbee removes the crests instead because the thread is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> already formed at the nominal diameter. It can either ramp down gradually >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or be completely removed with a rotary milling tool leaving a short ramp >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> due to the tool radius. See >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUojDLAaBiE >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 21:49, Adrian Mariano < >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> avm4@cornell.edu> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So "simply tapered" is not well-defined. Tapered how, and >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> over what length? In both directions or just one? And why is that >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> clearly optimal. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:55 AM nop head < >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> nop.head@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thinking some more about it, I think higbee only makes >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sense when you have a thread already made and you want to clean up the end. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The optimal end shape is simply tapered when you can mould it or 3D print >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, 20 Feb 2023 at 14:45, Rogier Wolff < >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> R.E.Wolff@bitwizard.nl> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 06:37:37AM -0500, Adrian Mariano >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > I looked for info on how screws are made and it sounds >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > normal way is indeed to press them between a pair of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flat dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > This process could not make a higbee end. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I checked out your link, because I didn't think the shape >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of a screw >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could be pressed between two dies. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Turns out the ROLL the pre-screw between the two dies. In >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hindsight >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The hint was there with the /flat/ dies, but for sure >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> they cannot be >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> FLAT because that'd make them "cylindrical" instead of a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (If I'm honest... I'd make the dies round (on the outside >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of a big >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wheel (*)) so that you can rotate them. rotate them in >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> opposite >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directions so that the screws remain stationary. Then >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> turn one >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> slightly faster so that after enough rotations it drops >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> down between >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the two big dies after enough of an impression has been >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> made. Feed a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> new pre-screw in due time. I'd think one machine can then >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thread 36000 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screws per hour easily.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (*) You can calculate the size of the required wheel by >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> knowing >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> howmany rotations of the screw you want between the dies >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (i.e. length >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the trajectory from original cylinder to "finished >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screw" ) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** +31-15-2049110 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> KVK: 27239233 ** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> going down >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the space shuttle. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to >>>>>>>>>>>> discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>>>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> OpenSCAD mailing list >>> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >> >