https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/813q30/3d_printing_purchase_advice_megathread_what/dv0sj1t/

Reddit's 3dprinting megathread buying guide.
Short answer - The MP Select will come in under budget for you and print
that build volume. I have one myself but haven't tried nylon in it. Not
sure what the material requirements are for it.

On Tue, Apr 24, 2018 at 12:22 PM, fractorr fractorr@gmail.com wrote:

I like the CR-10, for around $500, but I wonder whether it can get hot
enough for nylon. The hot end for the CR-10 should not go over 240,
which is just at the low end for nylon.  You might be able to find some
nylon-ish filaments that would work.  I print nylon in an enclosure, and
the CR-10 does not come with one.  If you can make do with PLA, the
CR-10 is wonderful.

On 4/24/2018 2:22 PM, fractorr wrote:

I just printed some nuts and bolts with my CR-10 @0.6mm, as a test.
They're very tight but they work great.  I like that they're tight.  I want
to screw them into an aluminium tube that I've tapped out, that appears to
be a go.  Nice fit, good hold.

I was planning on making an enclosure, and I was planning on trying nylon.
I guess I should do those things in that order.

On Tue, Apr 24, 2018 at 5:51 PM, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:

--
"Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated."
-- Jesus Christ

For nylon, the number one thing you want is an all-metal heatbreak.

Many of these cheap Chinese printers have a design where the teflon
filament tube goes down into the hot nozzle area. Above 240C, teflon
releases an odorless colorless neurotoxin which is very harmful. You
will need to go over 250C to print Nylon, so a printer design with the
teflon tube up against the nozzle is not suitable.

If you buy one of these cheap machines with the teflon tube hotend,
then spend the money upgrading the hotend to a genuine E3D V6 hotend
which has an all-metal heatbreak. Buy from a genuine reseller such as
Filastruder (USA) or E3D themselves (UK). You will find designs for
upgrading most printers to a V6 on Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory.

Don't believe cheap printer vendor marketing and don't buy a cheap
clone hotend. A lot of them sell these teflon-lined hotends as
"improved design" which isn't actually an improvement at all. Where a
cheap clone actually has a metal heatbreak, usually the machining is
inferior which just leads to filament clogging.

Jamie

On 25 April 2018 at 04:22, fractorr fractorr@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks all for the input. What about the Dremel Digilab 3D20? It looks like
it should do what I want and from my reading should be able to nylon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NA00MWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524633249&sr=1-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Dremel+Digilab+3D20&psc=1

On April 24, 2018 4:21:37 PM Jamie Bainbridge jamie.bainbridge@gmail.com
wrote:

very harmful.

That's good information, thanks Jamie.

On Tue, Apr 24, 2018 at 7:20 PM, Jamie Bainbridge <
jamie.bainbridge@gmail.com> wrote:

--
"Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated."
-- Jesus Christ

Well I have spend years amongst 3D printers with PTFE liners running at
255C and haven't noticed my neurons being poisoned. Wikipedia says above
300C for Teflon flu. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_fume_fever

On 25 April 2018 at 10:03, Rick graham.rick@gmail.com wrote:

nophead wrote

Well that explains a lot ;) once your neurons are done for, you obviously
wont notice...like mad hatters ;)

Wikipedia > The polymer fumes are especially harmful to certain birds whose
breathing, optimized for rapidity, allows toxins which are excluded by human
lungs. Fumes from Teflon in very high heat are fatal to parrots.

So we need a parrot rather than a canary? ... obviously leading to the Monty
Python sketch...

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