3D Printer
I have parrots and cook with teflon cookware. I would not worry about
teflon failing in a 3D printer or causing fumes. But there is a plastic
tube in some printers that can fail if they are over heated. The closer
you get to the theoretical failure point, the more risk you have that
the hot end will fail. All metal hot ends are better for high
temperature filaments, but some of them have trouble printing PLA.
On 4/25/2018 5:57 AM, MichaelAtOz wrote:
nophead wrote
Well I have spend years amongst 3D printers with PTFE liners running at
255C and haven't noticed my neurons being poisoned
Well that explains a lot ;) once your neurons are done for, you obviously
wont notice...like mad hatters ;)
Wikipedia > The polymer fumes are especially harmful to certain birds whose
breathing, optimized for rapidity, allows toxins which are excluded by human
lungs. Fumes from Teflon in very high heat are fatal to parrots.
So we need a parrot rather than a canary? ... obviously leading to the Monty
Python sketch...
So, I should just get a parrot?
On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 6:05 AM, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I have parrots and cook with teflon cookware. I would not worry about
teflon failing in a 3D printer or causing fumes. But there is a plastic
tube in some printers that can fail if they are over heated. The closer
you get to the theoretical failure point, the more risk you have that the
hot end will fail. All metal hot ends are better for high temperature
filaments, but some of them have trouble printing PLA.
On 4/25/2018 5:57 AM, MichaelAtOz wrote:
nophead wrote
Well I have spend years amongst 3D printers with PTFE liners running at
255C and haven't noticed my neurons being poisoned
Well that explains a lot ;) once your neurons are done for, you obviously
wont notice...like mad hatters ;)
Wikipedia > The polymer fumes are especially harmful to certain birds
whose
breathing, optimized for rapidity, allows toxins which are excluded by
human
lungs. Fumes from Teflon in very high heat are fatal to parrots.
So we need a parrot rather than a canary? ... obviously leading to the
Monty
Python sketch...
--
"Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated."
-- Jesus Christ
I keep my PLA out all of the time and print with it weeks and months
after I open the reel. I use filament from UltiMachine. I agree that
one has to be more careful with nylon...
On 4/24/2018 7:33 PM, fred wrote:
If you're shooting for nylon, you'll also want to know that nylon
filament is seriously hydroscopic. It can absorb atmospheric water in
as little as a day, compared to PLA or ABS which is good for a week or
more. Keep the nylon sealed when not in use. Print your part and
remove the nylon immediately, unless a repeat print is in the works.
The stuff expands a good ten percent after its printed, depending on
the original dimensions.
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tsingi wrote
So, I should just get a parrot?
And attach electrodes, so when the parrot leaves the mortal coil, you can
activate the exhaust fan?
You should of course have spare parrots.
( ANZAC day https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anzac_Day here BTW, so some
beers were consumed...good night)
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Get a mk2 as a kit
Or spend a bit more and get a mk3
It will save a huge amount of time
The auto cal and the removable sheet
Is incredible
Sent from my iPhone
On 25 Apr 2018, at 6:46 PM, MichaelAtOz oz.at.michael@gmail.com wrote:
tsingi wrote
So, I should just get a parrot?
And attach electrodes, so when the parrot leaves the mortal coil, you can
activate the exhaust fan?
You should of course have spare parrots.
( ANZAC day https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anzac_Day here BTW, so some
beers were consumed...good night)
Admin - PM me if you need anything, or if I've done something stupid...
Unless specifically shown otherwise above, my contribution is in the Public Domain; to the extent possible under law, I have waived all copyright and related or neighbouring rights to this work. Obviously inclusion of works of previous authors is not included in the above.
The TPP is no simple “trade agreement.” Fight it! http://www.ourfairdeal.org/ time is running out!
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
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Let me second a vote for UltiMachine filament. I have only used their ABS
and PLA, but every reel I have gotten from them tends to print smooth as
butter.
I have tried MatterHackers and Hatchbox (Amazon) and had less than stellar
results with both. Saving a few dollars on filament is useless when the
filament causes printer jams, misprints, or the parts crack apart.
I have a giant waterproof tote that I keep everything but my active spool
inside. Every time I get a silica desiccant packet (the "Do-not-Eat" packet
that ships with shoes and electronics) it goes in the tote with the
filament. The lid stays firmly clamped on except when changing filament.
Humidity here normally stays around 85%, so keeping the filament from
absorbing that helps the prints also.
--
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Don't forget PETg you can reliably print without fans and its got just
enough flex to make it more robust than for example PLA
- although you do need to print hotter (than PLA) and a little slower to
make sure you get best results...
On 25/04/18 14:44, shadowwynd wrote:
Let me second a vote for UltiMachine filament. I have only used their ABS
and PLA, but every reel I have gotten from them tends to print smooth as
butter.
I have tried MatterHackers and Hatchbox (Amazon) and had less than stellar
results with both. Saving a few dollars on filament is useless when the
filament causes printer jams, misprints, or the parts crack apart.
I have a giant waterproof tote that I keep everything but my active spool
inside. Every time I get a silica desiccant packet (the "Do-not-Eat" packet
that ships with shoes and electronics) it goes in the tote with the
filament. The lid stays firmly clamped on except when changing filament.
Humidity here normally stays around 85%, so keeping the filament from
absorbing that helps the prints also.
--
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
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