Re: stringing problem & related
On Thursday, December 23, 2021 3:52:51 PM EST fred via Discuss wrote:
If you haven't yet tried it, consider to place your filament spool in a
food dehydrator for up to fifteen hours. There's a few videos and photos of
before and after prints and one of the consistent aspects is substantially
reduced stringing and improved surface finish.
Original message from gene heskett <gheskett@shentel.net>
PETG on the hanger, H2 head on a BIQU BX printer, 235C nozzle, 70C bed.
!: Excessive stringing of the inside of a tube, where it doesn't stick and
stretches across 20 degrees or so in a straight line, In largely random
locations. What can I change to alleviate that?
end of original message (constructively edited, of course)
Fresh vac sealed roll, unsealed this morning., had a good sized bag of silica
gel in the hub, shoulda been dry already, I've slowed the printer some which
might have helped, but also getting elephants foot that tapers about .25mm as
it builds the first 3 or 4 mm's. So I've removed the 10C bed temp turndown at
the 10th layer. That does seem ultra picky though. But first copy of the
bearing was too small and I got ahead of myself and tried to make the toothed
belt w/o knowing how big to make it, so that was wasted time and plastic.
New bearing being printed now, for size testing. But I did see that the newer,
smaller teeth were going to work. Make a bearing & see how it fits, adjust if
needed, then make the next piece outward until I get to air. & wax the inside
of the hub to make it slip on the spool peg easier. Then remember that when
doing splined belts, cura needs about 2x the nozzle diameter minimum thickness
of the belt else it goes into retraction convulsions.. Very bad kharma that.
The whole 500lb table is doing the Russian saIlors stepdance.. I might add,
turning the part fan down to 50% helped and speed to 60%, but 40% for walls.
This bearing is 99& done and I don't see any hiccups. Progress I think.
I overshot the size of the bearing ball so thats a bit sloppy, and under shot
the ID so that quite too tight. .02mm bigger ID, and .2mm smaller balls.
Third try s/b usable.
Thanks.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Gene,
PLEASE FIND A FORUM OR MAILING-LIST TO ASK YOUR PURE 3D PRINTING QUESTIONS.
THIS FORUM IS ABOUT OPENSCAD.
This thread, including my contribution, a total of 6 entries, generated 5226 emails.
We have over 870 members who, no offence, mostly are not interested in your printers deficiencies.
I have placed you under moderation, your emails will be held until some gets around to checking
them.
MichaelAtOz
OpenSCAD Administration.
-----Original Message-----
From: gene heskett [mailto:gheskett@shentel.net]
Sent: Fri, 24 Dec 2021 09:56
To: discuss@lists.openscad.org
Subject: [OpenSCAD] Re: stringing problem & related
On Thursday, December 23, 2021 3:52:51 PM EST fred via Discuss wrote:
If you haven't yet tried it, consider to place your filament spool in a
food dehydrator for up to fifteen hours. There's a few videos and photos of
before and after prints and one of the consistent aspects is substantially
reduced stringing and improved surface finish.
Original message from gene heskett <gheskett@shentel.net>
PETG on the hanger, H2 head on a BIQU BX printer, 235C nozzle, 70C bed.
!: Excessive stringing of the inside of a tube, where it doesn't stick and
stretches across 20 degrees or so in a straight line, In largely random
locations. What can I change to alleviate that?
end of original message (constructively edited, of course)
Fresh vac sealed roll, unsealed this morning., had a good sized bag of silica
gel in the hub, shoulda been dry already, I've slowed the printer some which
might have helped, but also getting elephants foot that tapers about .25mm as
it builds the first 3 or 4 mm's. So I've removed the 10C bed temp turndown at
the 10th layer. That does seem ultra picky though. But first copy of the
bearing was too small and I got ahead of myself and tried to make the toothed
belt w/o knowing how big to make it, so that was wasted time and plastic.
New bearing being printed now, for size testing. But I did see that the newer,
smaller teeth were going to work. Make a bearing & see how it fits, adjust if
needed, then make the next piece outward until I get to air. & wax the inside
of the hub to make it slip on the spool peg easier. Then remember that when
doing splined belts, cura needs about 2x the nozzle diameter minimum thickness
of the belt else it goes into retraction convulsions.. Very bad kharma that.
The whole 500lb table is doing the Russian saIlors stepdance.. I might add,
turning the part fan down to 50% helped and speed to 60%, but 40% for walls.
This bearing is 99& done and I don't see any hiccups. Progress I think.
I overshot the size of the bearing ball so thats a bit sloppy, and under shot
the ID so that quite too tight. .02mm bigger ID, and .2mm smaller balls.
Third try s/b usable.
Thanks.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
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On 23/12/2021 23:25, MichaelAtOz wrote:
We have over 870 members who, no offence, mostly are not interested in your printers deficiencies
we have over 876 members, but only about 50 contribute anything to the
mailing list. In the spirit of the season, maybe time to kick out the
lurkers.