loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works finally
On Monday 05 July 2021 06:57:25 Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour
or so at 50deg C,
I don't believe my gas oven will go the low. Seems I tried that once and
it wouldn't take below 200F. The wonders of electronics, spit.
then print with that length asap. I've mentioned
before about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there.
Which extension?
You need to set up the printer for your filament. tolerances between
filament blends, nozzle size, feed mechanism, thermistors, etc, can
not necessarily cancel each other out, and then there is the hot end
cooling fan on the ender,which also cools the part. You need to do the
tests - they wouldn't be available if they were not needed. If you are
getting an allmetal/direct drive hotend, you will have to start all
over again wrt the settings. If you are getting jams now, with a
bowden tube setup, and you use the same 'gung-ho' approach to
settings, you will be forever trying unsuccessfully to unblock the
nozzle (been there, done that- not the gung-ho, but the unblocking..).
But properly set up, it is easy to unblock the hot end, when you
forget, and turn off the printer after the print has finished, but
before the hot end has fully cooled. And those little 'cob-webs' -
they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem, then move to
Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
HIPS, I do not recall seeing that, url?
On 05/07/2021 09:44, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 04:17:45 nop head wrote:
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily
with a flame.
I've been shaveing it with a fresh box knife blade.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Monday 05 July 2021 09:17:37 jon wrote:
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S essentially
all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints adhere to the
build plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that had been out in
the humidity for a while, but other than that, it is simple and
reliable for me.
This roll has been out for a while, around 3 months, so its had plenty of
time to get wet, this house has a humidifier in the furnace, set for
50%. In thinking about it, my thoughts run toward putting the spool
several feet from the printer and running the filament thru a 1" plastic
pipe with a tee in the middle of the run being fed by a cheap hair drier
set on low, and with a couple feet of air for cooling between the end of
the pipe and the entrance to the extruder. Since in say 5 feet of pipe,
it would be heated to dry it for around an hour, wouldn't that work too?
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with the
default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just works.
The only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed adhesion.
PETG is not particularly sensitive to moisture and does not have to
be printed from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do store all
of my filaments in air tight boxes with bags of desiccant, but I
just print them in the open air and have never had trouble.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I just keep the whole spool in a box that I can set the temperature to
anything up to about 80C. I set it high for 24 hours when I put a new spool
in and then keep it at a constant 30C. Since the box is well insulated it
only takes a few Watts to keep it at that temperature and humidity reads
about 18%.
On Mon, 5 Jul 2021 at 16:46, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 09:17:37 jon wrote:
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S essentially
all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints adhere to the
build plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that had been out in
the humidity for a while, but other than that, it is simple and
reliable for me.
This roll has been out for a while, around 3 months, so its had plenty of
time to get wet, this house has a humidifier in the furnace, set for
50%. In thinking about it, my thoughts run toward putting the spool
several feet from the printer and running the filament thru a 1" plastic
pipe with a tee in the middle of the run being fed by a cheap hair drier
set on low, and with a couple feet of air for cooling between the end of
the pipe and the entrance to the extruder. Since in say 5 feet of pipe,
it would be heated to dry it for around an hour, wouldn't that work too?
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with the
default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just works.
The only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed adhesion.
PETG is not particularly sensitive to moisture and does not have to
be printed from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do store all
of my filaments in air tight boxes with bags of desiccant, but I
just print them in the open air and have never had trouble.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 05/07/2021 15:27, Jan Wieck wrote:
On 7/5/21 6:57 AM, Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour or
so at 50deg C, then print with that length asap. I've mentioned before
The success of that method depends on the oven. My gas oven produces
too much moisture by itself and I can't dial it low enough, so that
method has the risk of deforming the filament here.
Regards, Jan
Well, maybe put it in a frying pan, possibly with some cooking oil and a
few eggs! (Pet can be food safe, after all, but I'm not sure if lukewarm
eggs are food safe,'tho.)😉 If you can't get it down to 50 degrees, and
you know it is not a drying atmosphere, then it is obvious that your gas
oven won't work for you. Do you want me to suggest an alternative? It's
most likely built into your printer, if you don't know, at least if the
printer can print petg or abs.
On Monday 05 July 2021 11:29:26 Ray West wrote:
Humidity may, or may not be a problem. It depends where you are in the
world. Epson ink jet printers, for example, if using pigment ink,
don't like it in a dry atmosphere, most plastic fdm filaments don't
like a damp atmosphere. In many locations the little bag of silica gel
is useless, and at least one filament manufacturer is not providing
them in the vac sealed bag. Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when
hot, in that case the hair spray is used as a release film, and is
easier to apply (if more messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because
something works for me or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not
mean the same will work for others, there are too many variables in
play. The best that can be done is to thoroughly test your own system,
with your own filament, although other folk's settings may be used as
a starting point.
And then, of course, there is the thing that Gene is trying to print.
If it was easy, then the drive manufacturers would be doing it, but
afaik, they are not able to do so, at least with the cheap/diy/common
type filaments/printers.
That thought was also part of the challenge of doing it Ray, and I am
making progress. At my age, the learning is a little slower but its
still fun at the end of the day. That ability helps explain why I quit
school as a freshman and went to work fixing tv's, which at the time I
did it were 30 tube monsters you could heat a well insulated house with.
And that got old, so I switched to broadcasting after getting a 1st
phone in '62, and in 72 passed the CET test so I am one of those, much
rarer than a 1st phone, by 77 I had my name on the office door as Chief
Engineer, often without any help unless I needed a backhoe operator. My
final 19 working years, that door was at WDTV in North Central WV. And
now I've been retired about that long.
I guess I am a survivor, several medical events have since occurred, one
of which has a 2% survival rate, but he isn't ready for me yet. :o) So
I'm here, pestering you kind folks to learn. That is what life is all
about I believe.
On 05/07/2021 14:17, jon wrote:
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S
essentially all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints
adhere to the build plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that
had been out in the humidity for a while, but other than that, it is
simple and reliable for me.
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with
the default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just
works. The only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed
adhesion. PETG is not particularly sensitive to moisture and does
not have to be printed from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do
store all of my filaments in air tight boxes with bags of
desiccant, but I just print them in the open air and have never had
trouble.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On 05/07/2021 16:34, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 06:57:25 Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour
or so at 50deg C,
I don't believe my gas oven will go the low. Seems I tried that once and
it wouldn't take below 200F. The wonders of electronics, spit.
Do something else, then.
then print with that length asap. I've mentioned
before about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there.
Which extension?
go to your favourite search engine. type in 'cura extensions' in the
appropriate field, and select whichever ones you want. (Possibly
'Calibration Shapes'?)
before the hot end has fully cooled. And those little 'cob-webs' -
they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem, then move to
Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
HIPS, I do not recall seeing that, url?
see previous reply wrt search engine. maybe try 'HIPS filament'. 'HIP
replacement' probably don't want that.😕
On Mon, 2021-07-05 at 16:29 +0100, Ray West wrote:
Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when hot, in that case the hair
spray is used as a release film, and is easier to apply (if more
messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because something works for me
or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not mean the same
will work for others, there are too many variables in play.
I cringe whenever I hear someone say they use hair spray. I did speak
with one fellow who removed the glass on his bed in order to use hair
spray, but I think that's a rarity.
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
I was once told to try a product called "Pledge Floor Care Multisurface
Finish", and I have never used anything else since. Prints just pop
right off when the bed drops to about 60C. Search for it on Amazon.
It's in the blue squeeze bottle.
I squirt some on the bed, then use a rag to wipe over the surface
(glass). 1 application will last quite a few prints, and you can just
wipe some more on, as it will dissolve the dried stuff that's already
on there. Every few months or so, I'll clean the bed thoroughly.
But as you say, what works for one, may not work for others.
On 7/5/21 12:04 PM, Ray West wrote:
If you can't get it down to 50 degrees, and
you know it is not a drying atmosphere, then it is obvious that your gas
oven won't work for you. Do you want me to suggest an alternative? It's
most likely built into your printer, if you don't know, at least if the
printer can print petg or abs.
As said above, I'm using my food dehydrator with extra trays that are
modified to spacers. Works very well. For storage I use freezer bags
with Dry&Dry desiccant, the color coded stuff. That can also be dried
perfectly in the dehydrator.
Regards, Jan
--
Jan Wieck
On Monday 05 July 2021 12:56:32 Ray West wrote:
On 05/07/2021 16:34, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 06:57:25 Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that,
simply unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven
for an hour or so at 50deg C,
I don't believe my gas oven will go the low. Seems I tried that once
and it wouldn't take below 200F. The wonders of electronics, spit.
Do something else, then.
then print with that length asap. I've mentioned
before about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there.
Which extension?
go to your favourite search engine. type in 'cura extensions' in the
appropriate field, and select whichever ones you want. (Possibly
'Calibration Shapes'?)
before the hot end has fully cooled. And those little 'cob-webs' -
they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem, then move to
Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
HIPS, I do not recall seeing that, url?
see previous reply wrt search engine. maybe try 'HIPS filament'. 'HIP
replacement' probably don't want that.
No, but lower lumbar disc replacements might be an option. If I could
find a surgeon that would try it.
However, in this thread that all have snipped, without comment, my
suggestion of feeding the filament thru a long (5 feet) plastic pipe
with heated air flow at 70-90C flowing in the pipe, placed between the
spool and the printer with a couple feet of air to cool it between the
end of the pipe and the extruder, Is that so off the wall as to be
ignored?
My last make turned out to be just a visible crack oversized, so one
about .15mm smaller is building now.
Thanks all.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Monday 05 July 2021 14:43:32 larry wrote:
On Mon, 2021-07-05 at 16:29 +0100, Ray West wrote:
Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when hot, in that case the hair
spray is used as a release film, and is easier to apply (if more
messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because something works for me
or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not mean the same
will work for others, there are too many variables in play.
I cringe whenever I hear someone say they use hair spray. I did speak
with one fellow who removed the glass on his bed in order to use hair
spray, but I think that's a rarity.
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
I was once told to try a product called "Pledge Floor Care
Multisurface Finish", and I have never used anything else since.
Prints just pop right off when the bed drops to about 60C. Search for
it on Amazon. It's in the blue squeeze bottle.
I squirt some on the bed, then use a rag to wipe over the surface
(glass). 1 application will last quite a few prints, and you can just
wipe some more on, as it will dissolve the dried stuff that's already
on there. Every few months or so, I'll clean the bed thoroughly.
This is a small town, 2 stores that might have it, but I'm headed out to
find some shortly. Thanks Larry
But as you say, what works for one, may not work for others.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene