Greetings all;
I've modified the drive slightly, updated the file on my web page, and
added a README.
One question way down, long prior explanation.
One of the helpfull folks on this list, looking at my code, PM'd me with
one possible solution which involved saving an .stl of what would then
be used as an import to become the third argument in a difference.
This is a capability I hadn't learned about, and it opens up the
possability of fixing another of my printers that in the coarse of this
project, I found was not able to handle PETG temps in its hot end on a
daily basis. I have several failed printers piled up that I'd like to
restore, my fav of the bunch is a CR10-S Pro V2.
I had bought a Sherpa direct drive kit to put on this Creality CR10-S Pro
V2, one of the biggest bed slingers ever made, and whose hot end I found
was not able to tolerate the 40C increase in temps on a daily basis.
I just found a kit of .stl's on thingyverse that will put several
different versions of the all metal hot-ends that do PETG temps ok, such
as the E3D hot ends. And this kit has facilities to mount and use
several different direct drives, but not the Sherpa, which is currently
the lightest of the direct drive kits, but its skeleton frame mounts by
straddling the top of the hot end as opposed to all the others that
mount to the face of the motor.
I have thingyverse kits that do mount the Sherpa, but they would grossly
interfere with the E3D hot end mount and were not intended to be fitted
to the CR10-S Pro V2 which seems to be quite unique in its x carriage
design.
So, here is the question:
Can I import these 2 different mounting styles as .stl's, blending the
Sherpa's foot print into a mount for an E3D hot-end and cooling system?
That to me, looks like the best way to rescue this failed CR10-S Pro V2,
which did a great job of printing, for the first 3 PETG prints. After
that it was a hot end rebuild to stop the leakage before every job but
even that wasn't enough to get it thru a 2 hour print. The leakage would
start, pile up on the print, catch on the hot end and rip it loose from
the bed.
It seems to have enough motor power to throw around a nearly 400mm square
glass bed and retain decent 100mm+ printing speeds.
Thanks everybody.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
I'd suggest you model the backplate/carriage of the printer, showing the
tapped fixing holes as cylinders. Import the stl files into separate
modules and translate the modules to locate them over the appropriate
fixing holes/cylinders (most likely you will need to model an
intermediate adapter plate). Once in position join the parts with
cylinders/cubes as required. When you have the final model, section it
around the important regions, print those to check that it will fit on
the real thing. Make sure the part cooling nozzle cools the part - some
of the thingiverse designs are rubbish, and ensure that the exhaust of
the hot end cooling fan does not blow down on the part.
After that, you'll probably realise it would have been better to design
it from scratch.
On 15/08/2021 00:38, Gene Heskett wrote:
Greetings all;
I've modified the drive slightly, updated the file on my web page, and
added a README.
One question way down, long prior explanation.
etc...
On Sunday 15 August 2021 07:36:09 Ray West wrote:
I'd suggest you model the backplate/carriage of the printer, showing
the tapped fixing holes as cylinders.
This may be the best idea, because the carriage plate on this one bears
ZERO resemblance to the ender3/ender5 or the regular CR10-S plate, the
Pro v2 is completely different animal. And I just found a problem not
noticed when it was on the x bar of the machine. I need to remove around
1/8" of all 3 axle bolts holding the roller wheels, they project thru
the front of the carriage far enough to prevent the hot end from seating
on its mount pillars. Clearance needs to be such that the axle bolt end
sits flush with the top of the nylock nut. 1/8" beyond it hits the hot
end, holding it out of whack.
This print it turns out is for an E3D V6 on a CRV2, whatever that is, it
gets no hits that are printers on a net search. And the adapter mount
for a CR10 looks like the ender-3 because the CR10's I have found aren't
anything near the size of this printer. It is both huge and different.
The kit of pieces I am lookiing at is thingiverse 4561720. But its
apparent this printer is an orphan despite wearing the Creality name.
This prusa is working moderatly well, but I keep turning the flow down
but am still getting overflow signs at 50% flow from its own tune menu.
But I'm getting closer at 50% than its gotten before.
I've taken the plate off so I can get at it, measure it and model it in
OpenSCAD since it looks like I'll have to invent this wheel too, darn
it. But its at least "square", something I would never accuse the good
looking Ender 5 of, cuz it isn't. The whole frame is out of square.
Import the stl files into
separate modules and translate the modules to locate them over the
appropriate fixing holes/cylinders (most likely you will need to model
an intermediate adapter plate). Once in position join the parts with
cylinders/cubes as required. When you have the final model, section
it around the important regions, print those to check that it will fit
on the real thing. Make sure the part cooling nozzle cools the part -
some of the thingiverse designs are rubbish, and ensure that the
exhaust of the hot end cooling fan does not blow down on the part.
After that, you'll probably realise it would have been better to
design it from scratch.
On 15/08/2021 00:38, Gene Heskett wrote:
Greetings all;
I've modified the drive slightly, updated the file on my web page,
and added a README.
One question way down, long prior explanation.
etc...
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.