Re: Math problem (3d printing version)
Hi Gene,
Maybe you're running the petg at a too high temperature. Genuine
Capricorn tubing is OK at the petg temp. High temp will give lots of
stringing and oozing, too, hence the long retractions needed to stop
that. With the all metal hot end you need to be sure the hot end cooling
fan is working properly, else you'll get clogs. If you had direct drive
extruder, then the retraction distance can be less (but the same amount
of plastic movement will occur in hot end, so stringing will be the
same) but control is more precise. Some folk fit, some printers come
with already fitted, a wiper for the nozzle to remove the filament build up.
If it is a Prusa printer, then if you use the Prusa slicer, and P:rusa
filament, then their support forum would be the place to help solve your
printing problems. You should be able to run it straight out of the box,
that is partly why they are expensive, compared to Chinese made kit - it
is generally tested before selling. The Prusa slicer is a fork of
Slic3r, I've used super slicer, a similar fork, and that works fine, but
Cura has 'tree support'.
On Monday 26 July 2021 08:09:56 Ray West wrote:
Hi Gene,
Maybe you're running the petg at a too high temperature. Genuine
Capricorn tubing is OK at the petg temp. High temp will give lots of
stringing and oozing, too, hence the long retractions needed to stop
that. With the all metal hot end you need to be sure the hot end
cooling fan is working properly, else you'll get clogs. If you had
direct drive extruder, then the retraction distance can be less (but
the same amount of plastic movement will occur in hot end, so
stringing will be the same) but control is more precise. Some folk
fit, some printers come with already fitted, a wiper for the nozzle to
remove the filament build up.
If it is a Prusa printer, then if you use the Prusa slicer, and P:rusa
filament, then their support forum would be the place to help solve
your printing problems. You should be able to run it straight out of
the box, that is partly why they are expensive, compared to Chinese
made kit - it is generally tested before selling. The Prusa slicer is
a fork of Slic3r, I've used super slicer, a similar fork, and that
works fine, but Cura has 'tree support'.
One of, but not a super important, reason I went back to cura. I do fault
cura for poor bridging occasionally, but this project doesn't need super
accurate bridging. And I've been able to fine tune it to about the same
results I was getting from the CR10S Pro V2, and from the BIQU BX which
has the famous H2 on it. Does absolutely perfect work in PLA at 200C,
but it will burn up the dark blue capricorn in 2 hours work at 235C. The
lighter blue lasts maybe 20 minutes, not long enough to finish a print.
Thanks and Cheers Ray West, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Don't know what capricorn is made of but I run PTFE lined hot ends up to
255C and they last at least 6 years.
On Tue, 27 Jul 2021 at 00:34, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Monday 26 July 2021 08:09:56 Ray West wrote:
Hi Gene,
Maybe you're running the petg at a too high temperature. Genuine
Capricorn tubing is OK at the petg temp. High temp will give lots of
stringing and oozing, too, hence the long retractions needed to stop
that. With the all metal hot end you need to be sure the hot end
cooling fan is working properly, else you'll get clogs. If you had
direct drive extruder, then the retraction distance can be less (but
the same amount of plastic movement will occur in hot end, so
stringing will be the same) but control is more precise. Some folk
fit, some printers come with already fitted, a wiper for the nozzle to
remove the filament build up.
If it is a Prusa printer, then if you use the Prusa slicer, and P:rusa
filament, then their support forum would be the place to help solve
your printing problems. You should be able to run it straight out of
the box, that is partly why they are expensive, compared to Chinese
made kit - it is generally tested before selling. The Prusa slicer is
a fork of Slic3r, I've used super slicer, a similar fork, and that
works fine, but Cura has 'tree support'.
One of, but not a super important, reason I went back to cura. I do fault
cura for poor bridging occasionally, but this project doesn't need super
accurate bridging. And I've been able to fine tune it to about the same
results I was getting from the CR10S Pro V2, and from the BIQU BX which
has the famous H2 on it. Does absolutely perfect work in PLA at 200C,
but it will burn up the dark blue capricorn in 2 hours work at 235C. The
lighter blue lasts maybe 20 minutes, not long enough to finish a print.
Thanks and Cheers Ray West, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
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On Tuesday 27 July 2021 04:26:23 nop head wrote:
Don't know what capricorn is made of but I run PTFE lined hot ends up
to 255C and they last at least 6 years.
Capricorn IS PTFE, but has 2 grades, but the dark blue is supposed to be
the best, but I'm not even getting 6 hours out of it.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
This link shows that Capricorn it is good enough for petg and more - up
to about 270deg, or so (with no canaries).
https://www.captubes.com/safety.html
If yours is failing with petg printing (I've used Capricorn with no
problem for about 8 months, so I can vouch for it being OK with Petg, as
will the rest of the world) then either you have a knock-off, or a bad
batch, or your temperatures are completely wrong. Ordinary ptfe bowden
tube is good enough for some petg, but afaik no petg needs to be printed
above 255deg C. It may be that your reported temperature is not the
actual temperature, but that does not matter if you print the Cura
temperature tower with your filament and your printer, and use the
temperature that it gives you.
If you've given up on the bowden tube, and gone all metal hot-end, then
you need to print other tests as well to set it up, including a new PID
for the hot end.
As Father Horton mentioned earlier
Here's a good reference for printer calibration:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
the tt guy was a secondary school teacher, he may be able to give
explanations better than any of us. I also reckon, if you sent him your
stl files, he'd do a YouTube tutorial about it.
Best wishes,
Ray
2021 12:55, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Tuesday 27 July 2021 04:26:23 nop head wrote:
Don't know what capricorn is made of but I run PTFE lined hot ends up
to 255C and they last at least 6 years.
Capricorn IS PTFE, but has 2 grades, but the dark blue is supposed to be
the best, but I'm not even getting 6 hours out of it.
Cheers, Gene Heskett