Does openscad take a .dxf as input?
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in .dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
Thank you.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Import the DXF and linear extrude it?
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 11:33, gene heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in
.dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
Thank you.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 16.12.21 12:33, gene heskett wrote:
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in .dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
The other option would be to use an actual OpenSCAD module
generating the gears.
Just one example:
https://github.com/revarbat/BOSL2/wiki/gears.scad
ciao,
Torsten.
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 7:01:25 AM EST nop head wrote:
Import the DXF and linear extrude it?
Can I then modify it with scale, rotate, translate etc? That would be ideal
as a foundation for a new, very high ratio planetary drive. We are exploring
different ways to make a harmonic type drive but much shorter axially on the
emc list. Unforch, my printer is down and fedex is sitting on repair parts
from CZ. I got a notice late yesterday that due to logistics, it would NOT
arrive this Friday. But no new date was given. Grrrrrr.
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable, the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing it
for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and leak
eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I bought a
dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square nuts that mount
it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa MK3S is a Just Works
printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8 rolls so far. And I have a
room full of other printers that can't survive 1/4 roll of PETG.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 11:33, gene heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in
.dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
Thank you.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
On 12/16/2021 8:03 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 7:01:25 AM EST nop head wrote:
Import the DXF and linear extrude it?
Can I then modify it with scale, rotate, translate etc? That would be ideal
as a foundation for a new, very high ratio planetary drive. We are exploring
different ways to make a harmonic type drive but much shorter axially on the
emc list. Unforch, my printer is down and fedex is sitting on repair parts
from CZ. I got a notice late yesterday that due to logistics, it would NOT
arrive this Friday. But no new date was given. Grrrrrr.
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable, the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing it
for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and leak
eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I bought a
dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square nuts that mount
it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa MK3S is a Just Works
printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8 rolls so far. And I have a
room full of other printers that can't survive 1/4 roll of PETG.
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.
Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
To print PP you have to stick a sheet of adhesive backed PP film on the
bed. PP only sticks to itself.
The company I bought PP filament from sent PP film sheets with it.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:14, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.
Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP
but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the
time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when
removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose
and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the
Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't
survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I printed the Prusament Polycarbonate blend on a textured sheet with
glue stick. And my understanding is the glue stick was so I could get
the model off, not to get it to stay on. Had no problems at all with
adhesion. Nop head, I don't think polycarbonate and polypropylene
have at all similar properties. Note, however, that I thought the
nozzle on the MK3S was printed in ABS, not PC.
On Thu, Dec 16, 2021 at 9:19 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:
To print PP you have to stick a sheet of adhesive backed PP film on the bed. PP only sticks to itself.
The company I bought PP filament from sent PP film sheets with it.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:14, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the time the
brim is half done.Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Yes, polypropylene and polycarbonate are completely different plastics. I
was replying to
I did buy a roll of PP but not even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the
Prusa bed, its loose by the time the brim is half done.
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is PETG
that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:32, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:
I printed the Prusament Polycarbonate blend on a textured sheet with
glue stick. And my understanding is the glue stick was so I could get
the model off, not to get it to stay on. Had no problems at all with
adhesion. Nop head, I don't think polycarbonate and polypropylene
have at all similar properties. Note, however, that I thought the
nozzle on the MK3S was printed in ABS, not PC.
On Thu, Dec 16, 2021 at 9:19 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:
To print PP you have to stick a sheet of adhesive backed PP film on the
bed. PP only sticks to itself.
The company I bought PP filament from sent PP film sheets with it.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:14, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.
Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP
but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the
time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as
expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when
removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come
loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per,
I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the
square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the
Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed
it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't
survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org