I am almost done with a mount for my projector which unfortunately does not
have a 1/4-20 receptacle. I like what I have so far, which is a flat plate
with recess for the nut, a "dish" for the projector and cutouts for the
optics and controls/cables.
However, I would need to use rubber bands to secure the projector, and that
just feels like a kludge.
I would prefer some sort of latch/clip feature where it would "click" in and
hold the projector and allow me to release the projector by pressing
sideways on the clip.
What I'm thinking of would involve printing an overhang, but maybe there's a
better way.
I'm not even sure what this feature is called. Second pic on this page
gives the general idea.
http://www.redheadbabymama.com/2012/04/review-in-babyproofing-safety-1st.html
I want something I can print in one piece with the main body if that's
possible.
Ideas?
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Printing overhangs is not a big deal. You can either ask the slicing
software to provide the support, or you can include break-away support
as part of your design. I do that routinely. Start off trying an 0.5 mm
wall or box. They seem to break away easily.
Jon
On 9/3/2016 7:39 AM, dbvanhorn wrote:
I am almost done with a mount for my projector which unfortunately does not
have a 1/4-20 receptacle. I like what I have so far, which is a flat plate
with recess for the nut, a "dish" for the projector and cutouts for the
optics and controls/cables.
However, I would need to use rubber bands to secure the projector, and that
just feels like a kludge.
I would prefer some sort of latch/clip feature where it would "click" in and
hold the projector and allow me to release the projector by pressing
sideways on the clip.
What I'm thinking of would involve printing an overhang, but maybe there's a
better way.
I'm not even sure what this feature is called. Second pic on this page
gives the general idea.
http://www.redheadbabymama.com/2012/04/review-in-babyproofing-safety-1st.html
I want something I can print in one piece with the main body if that's
possible.
Ideas?
Overhang is not an issue.
The real issue is the material used to print the part. I have done many projects over the past 5 years that involved this sort of “click fit”. I was running a 3D Print Lab which provided service - and also trained students. Of course, I also had many “personal” projects - and a major theme was constructing this kind of snap-together constructions.
We were purely an ABS shop - and ABS proved to be relatively unforgiving under multiple “snap-on/snap-off” cycles.
If you make it too thick, it won’t bend. If you make it too thin, it will crack.
For your application, my first though is to consider a “twist-on” connection (like, say an SLR bayonet mount, or a pickle-jar lid.
On Sep 3, 2016, at 07:03, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
Printing overhangs is not a big deal. You can either ask the slicing software to provide the support, or you can include break-away support as part of your design. I do that routinely. Start off trying an 0.5 mm wall or box. They seem to break away easily.
Jon
On 9/3/2016 7:39 AM, dbvanhorn wrote:
I am almost done with a mount for my projector which unfortunately does not
have a 1/4-20 receptacle. I like what I have so far, which is a flat plate
with recess for the nut, a "dish" for the projector and cutouts for the
optics and controls/cables.
However, I would need to use rubber bands to secure the projector, and that
just feels like a kludge.
I would prefer some sort of latch/clip feature where it would "click" in and
hold the projector and allow me to release the projector by pressing
sideways on the clip.
What I'm thinking of would involve printing an overhang, but maybe there's a
better way.
I'm not even sure what this feature is called. Second pic on this page
gives the general idea.
http://www.redheadbabymama.com/2012/04/review-in-babyproofing-safety-1st.html
I want something I can print in one piece with the main body if that's
possible.
Ideas?
—
Kenneth Sloan
kennethrsloan@gmail.com
You could try PLA. There are more flexible materials available now
(nylon, NinjaFlex) too.
On 9/3/2016 9:38 AM, Kenneth Sloan wrote:
Overhang is not an issue.
The real issue is the material used to print the part. I have done many projects over the past 5 years that involved this sort of “click fit”. I was running a 3D Print Lab which provided service - and also trained students. Of course, I also had many “personal” projects - and a major theme was constructing this kind of snap-together constructions.
We were purely an ABS shop - and ABS proved to be relatively unforgiving under multiple “snap-on/snap-off” cycles.
If you make it too thick, it won’t bend. If you make it too thin, it will crack.
For your application, my first though is to consider a “twist-on” connection (like, say an SLR bayonet mount, or a pickle-jar lid.
I am using PLA.
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n18320/projmount.png
Here's what it looks like now.
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n18320/soneed.jpg
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PLA is more rigid than ABS.
Some random ideas that hopefully help...
Presumably you've seen the "living hinge" thread on here? The same concept
can be applied to making springy objects out of PLA (e.g.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:756740).
Maybe design an ordinary hinge to use something like a ballpoint pen or
clothes peg spring to latch it?
I'd design one end or side of your mount with a small overhang, so that you
only need a clip or whatever at the other end. You should be able to get
away with a 1mm or so of overhang. Maybe make each end/side springy?
A couple of screws with large heads on either side/end would work as a
latch.
Can you put something on the 1/4-20 mounting screw that gets pressed down
onto the top of the projector?
On Sun, Sep 4, 2016 at 2:07 AM, dbvanhorn kc6ete@gmail.com wrote:
I am using PLA.
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n18320/projmount.png
Here's what it looks like now.
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n18320/soneed.jpg
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frankv wrote
Can you put something on the 1/4-20 mounting screw that gets pressed down
onto the top of the projector?
A second pair of eyes is usually useful! :) Yes I can. Instead of using
a nut, I can use a threaded coupler, and that would allow me to use a bolt
to secure a printed "arm" that goes across the top of the projector.
Not the solution I was looking for, but I think it will work nicely.
Thanks.
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