trying to automate a size engraving
I have printed PETG without any problems for years with my Prusas. I
can't comment on what might be different between your printers and
mine. If you send me a sample STL I can print it in PETG and send you
photos.
Jon
On 2/18/2023 7:07 AM, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the
next path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated
teardrop holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
On Sat, 18 Feb 2023 at 11:31, Raymond West raywest@raywest.com wrote:
On 18/02/2023 03:52, gene heskett wrote:
One other question I should ask. I bought a couple rolls of ABS,
would
that be a better material than PETG? I chose it because you can
pick
up a pop bobble from the roadside ditch that's been there for 40
years, and its still a good bottle. But I see a lot of stuff being
made from ABS.
Comments on the relative long life of each welcome.
A good comparison chart is at
https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/materials-guide/properties-table/
I prefer petg, easier to print than abs, warps less, and higher
ultimate
strength.
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Stephan has done many videos comparing strength of various materials:
https://www.youtube.com/@CNCKitchen
Strength and brittleness are different.
On 2/18/2023 7:20 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On 2/18/23 06:32, Raymond West wrote:
On 18/02/2023 03:52, gene heskett wrote:
One other question I should ask. I bought a couple rolls of ABS,
would that be a better material than PETG? I chose it because you
can pick up a pop bobble from the roadside ditch that's been there
for 40 years, and its still a good bottle. But I see a lot of stuff
being made from ABS.
Comments on the relative long life of each welcome.A good comparison chart is at
https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/materials-guide/properties-table/I prefer petg, easier to print than abs, warps less, and higher
ultimate strength.
Very helpful. Since pla shatters so easily, I was surprised to see
that it was rated stronger, but that has sure not been my experience.
Bookmarked it this time, thanks Raymond.
They don't mention glass for beds, but some sort of painted glass is
exactly what I'm building on as its loose at room temps. Textured PEI
is a PITA, smooth needs a few scrubbings with comet or bkf to scratch
it up, but then it sticks too well. Ditto for plain glass, by the
time you've made a tooth in microscratches so it sticks hot, it takes
glass cookies with it when removing the cold part. If you get it to
stick, clean with 91% isa to remove greasy fingerprints & otherwise
leave it be.
OpenSCAD mailing list
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.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
On 2/18/23 07:08, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the
next path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated
teardrop holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
The real fix for that takes a direct drive extruder sitting right on the
hot end, so you can extract the very limited amount the average hot end
allows, usually less than 2mm will still get you clogs, partial fix is a
titanium heat break that stops the bowden tube at the top, cold end of
the heat break. 2 of them for most common hot ends is 15 USD. Only brass
nozzles stay tight, a chrome plated copper hotblock helps. Common blocks
are 6061 alu, dead soft, rip the threads out in 3 nozzle changes, heat
treated copper lets you tighten nozzles much tighter. I have a
diamondback PCD insert in brass, pulled to about 2.75 NM with a 6 point
socket, still leaking but getting better.
Put a switch so the hotend fan can be disabled as that will allow the
nozzle heat to telegraph upward and thaw the freeze MOST of the time.
Monitor carefully and as soon as flow is re-established, keep the flow
moving so it doesn't freeze again and restart the fan. You must keep the
flow going for a couple minutes so all the now liquified plastic is
pushed down into the hot block where it belongs.
Don't touch the bed with the pcd, the diamond will mark it up badly. But
you knew that. ;o)>
Take care & stay well Raymond.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/
On 2/18/23 07:36, jon wrote:
I have printed PETG without any problems for years with my Prusas. I
can't comment on what might be different between your printers and
mine. If you send me a sample STL I can print it in PETG and send you
photos.
Jon
The diff is the prusa's direct drive extruder. You can get by with a
1.5mm retract for non-print motions.
On 2/18/2023 7:07 AM, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the
next path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated
teardrop holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
On Sat, 18 Feb 2023 at 11:31, Raymond West raywest@raywest.com wrote:
On 18/02/2023 03:52, gene heskett wrote:
One other question I should ask. I bought a couple rolls of ABS,
would
that be a better material than PETG? I chose it because you can
pick
up a pop bobble from the roadside ditch that's been there for 40
years, and its still a good bottle. But I see a lot of stuff being
made from ABS.
Comments on the relative long life of each welcome.
A good comparison chart is at
https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/materials-guide/properties-table/
I prefer petg, easier to print than abs, warps less, and higher
ultimate
strength.
_______________________________________________
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email todiscuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/
On 2/18/23 07:47, gene heskett wrote:
On 2/18/23 07:08, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the
next path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated
teardrop holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
The real fix for that takes a direct drive extruder sitting right on the
hot end, so you can extract the very limited amount the average hot end
allows, usually less than 2mm will still get you clogs, partial fix is a
titanium heat break that stops the bowden tube at the top, cold end of
the heat break. 2 of them for most common hot ends is 15 USD. Only brass
nozzles stay tight, a chrome plated copper hotblock helps. Common blocks
are 6061 alu, dead soft, rip the threads out in 3 nozzle changes, heat
treated copper lets you tighten nozzles much tighter. I have a
diamondback PCD insert in brass, pulled to about 2.75 NM with a 6 point
socket, still leaking but getting better.
Put a switch so the hotend fan can be disabled as that will allow the
nozzle heat to telegraph upward and thaw the freeze MOST of the time.
Monitor carefully and as soon as flow is re-established, keep the flow
moving so it doesn't freeze again and restart the fan. You must keep the
flow going for a couple minutes so all the now liquified plastic is
pushed down into the hot block where it belongs.
Don't touch the bed with the pcd, the diamond will mark it up badly. But
you knew that. ;o)>
Take care & stay well Raymond.
Correction nop-head.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/
On 18/02/2023 12:07, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the
next path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated
teardrop holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
These folk make /supply good filament in UK.
https://www.3dqf.co.uk/material-profiles - Rob will be very helpful.
Petg needs a bit of setting up, and will rip apart a glass bed, and many
coated beds. Use hair spray or prit stick to put a peelable layer
between bed and first layers. Print a few temperature towers, and
retraction test pieces. Petg is pretty runny, so retraction needs to be
right. It will vary between manufacturers.
I'm sort of guessing that your part cooling fan is inadequate for petg.
When bridging the filament needs to freeze more or less when it leaves
the nozzle. There are test pieces for that, too.
The same for me. I'm using Prusa's "satin" sheet for printing everything.
That comparison chart was VERY useful. Thank you Raymond! I also use
Prusa's chart: https://help.prusa3d.com/materials
On Sat, Feb 18, 2023 at 6:36 AM jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I have printed PETG without any problems for years with my Prusas. I
can't comment on what might be different between your printers and mine.
If you send me a sample STL I can print it in PETG and send you photos.
Jon
On 2/18/2023 7:07 AM, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the next
path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated teardrop
holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
Sam
I made a simple tensile test rig, using a digital torque meter and a
lever mechanism. I've tested most of the filaments I've used.
Printing my test pieces flat and vertical, some results for MPa are
pla flat 57.6 vertical 24.22 sd3d 65.00
petg flat 51.3 vertical 13.64 sd3d 53.00
I have not bothered to improve those figures, which would be achievable
by reducing speed and increasing temperature and some post processing.
My test samples were only 3mm by 2mm, a larger size would give different
results, I expect
It certainly shows that if you want maximum strength, be careful how you
orientate the object. The sd3d values are for solid items, not 3d
printed, afaik.
To get to strength in lb/sq inch, divide MPa by 145.04.
On 18/02/2023 14:45, Daniel Miner wrote:
The same for me. I'm using Prusa's "satin" sheet for printing
everything.
That comparison chart was VERY useful. Thank you Raymond! I also use
Prusa's chart: https://help.prusa3d.com/materials
On Sat, Feb 18, 2023 at 6:36 AM jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I have printed PETG without any problems for years with my
Prusas. I can't comment on what might be different between your
printers and mine. If you send me a sample STL I can print it in
PETG and send you photos.
Jon
On 2/18/2023 7:07 AM, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging
the next path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over
truncated teardrop holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
Sam
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email todiscuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
You are probably correct about cooling not being adequate.
On Sat, 18 Feb 2023 at 15:17, Raymond West raywest@raywest.com wrote:
I made a simple tensile test rig, using a digital torque meter and a lever
mechanism. I've tested most of the filaments I've used.
Printing my test pieces flat and vertical, some results for MPa are
pla flat 57.6 vertical 24.22 sd3d 65.00
petg flat 51.3 vertical 13.64 sd3d 53.00
I have not bothered to improve those figures, which would be achievable by
reducing speed and increasing temperature and some post processing.
My test samples were only 3mm by 2mm, a larger size would give different
results, I expect
It certainly shows that if you want maximum strength, be careful how you
orientate the object. The sd3d values are for solid items, not 3d printed,
afaik.
To get to strength in lb/sq inch, divide MPa by 145.04.
On 18/02/2023 14:45, Daniel Miner wrote:
The same for me. I'm using Prusa's "satin" sheet for printing
everything.
That comparison chart was VERY useful. Thank you Raymond! I also use
Prusa's chart: https://help.prusa3d.com/materials
On Sat, Feb 18, 2023 at 6:36 AM jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I have printed PETG without any problems for years with my Prusas. I
can't comment on what might be different between your printers and mine.
If you send me a sample STL I can print it in PETG and send you photos.
Jon
On 2/18/2023 7:07 AM, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the next
path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated teardrop
holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
Sam
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 2/18/23 09:29, Raymond West wrote:
On 18/02/2023 12:07, nop head wrote:
I wish I could print PETG but it is too sticky, so when bridging the
next path rips up the previous one. Even small bridges over truncated
teardrop holes or sparse infill break up.
How does anybody get around that?
These folk make /supply good filament in UK.
https://www.3dqf.co.uk/material-profiles - Rob will be very helpful.
Petg needs a bit of setting up, and will rip apart a glass bed, and many
coated beds. Use hair spray or prit stick to put a peelable layer
between bed and first layers. Print a few temperature towers, and
retraction test pieces. Petg is pretty runny, so retraction needs to be
right. It will vary between manufacturers.
I'm sort of guessing that your part cooling fan is inadequate for petg.
When bridging the filament needs to freeze more or less when it leaves
the nozzle. There are test pieces for that, too.
For PETG, my part fans are everything but stopped. Klipper bangs them at
full for about 2-3 seconds at the 2nd layer just to make sure they
start, then settles at 25% for the rest of the part. Full speed warps it
loose around the edges. 3-5mm for big parts. klipper beats marlin for
quality of part and is faster.
My glass plate on a 2 trees Sapphire-5 has been cleaned with a scrub
brush and bkf 3 times to enhance the surface micro-scratches for better
adhesion, and I get no warpage at a 72C bed, cold it may or may not pop
loose, or just a nudge with a razor sharp putty knife sharpened to a one
sided wedge. Its not had anything but 92% isa since to remove
fingerprint oils. Several months. Hair spray works too but builds up &
plays with both a bltouch and a pinda for bed leveling. The sp-5 is
stable, once set, is good for the life of the nozzle, doesn't have a bed
sensor, just homing switches. If I add a bed leveler, I use a 2mm
inductive sensor and put a Mag held PEI spring plate on it. I've more
than 1 printer but the sp-5 is making parts to rebuild 2 of the other 3,
the third one is a voron-2.4 trident about 30% built, I got rooked and
am having to build most of the plastic for it from stl's you have to beg
for. And the build instructions don't always fit the parts you get. The
$400 sp-5 has been a headache at times but once its shortcomings have
been addressed its a well trained workhorse.
A new titanium heat break and a chrome plated hard copper hot block have
fixed its major BBLB problems.
And I'll shudup before Michael bans me. This list is for OpenSCAD, not
for 3d printer problems.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/