I've done front panels by printing (inkjet or color laser) on a transparency in reverse.  Flipping it over lets you read through the transparency, which provides protection for the printing. You can also do a fake silk screen for a PC board with the same mechanism. Harvey On 12/12/2024 6:30 PM, Terry via Discuss wrote: > On Thu, 12 Dec 2024 13:18:50 -0800, you wrote: > >> On Thu, Dec 12, 2024 at 10:55?AM Terry via Discuss < >> discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote: >> >>> BACKGROUND: >>> For a Christmas gift I'm making an electronics project in a neat >>> enclosure. It includes the facility for choosing one of 24 options. That >>> currently uses a 12 way rotary switch, requiring wires to 12 inputs of a >>> micro controller unit (MCU). That works. But I want to reduce the size >>> of the MCU, the wiring, and the case. I've therefore redesigned it so >>> that the initial choice is instead made by turning the knob of a >>> potentiometer to one of 24 angles. That works too. But I'm seeking help >>> on (at least!) labelling the knob positions please. >>> >>> I could relearn some Inkscape or perhaps use my familiar PaintShop Pro. >>> And stick the paper or card result around the knob. But I’m considering >>> OpenSCAD, partly because that will let me play with my Ender 3 Pro 3D >>> printer. But it would also deliver a finished and labelled knob as the >>> end result. And the basis for other future projects (my hobby). >>> >> Veering off topic: >> I'm surprised you aren't using a rotary encoder if you are worried about >> the number of wires >> https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4220F-S0024/4499660 >> - $2.20 something like this gives you clear clockwise/counter clockwise >> signals, so as long as the device has power it can just add or subtract to >> get to the desired setting. >> >> A common technique is to print the numbers, mirror image, onto >> transparency, so when the transparent plastic is cut to size and attached >> it protects the ink on the underside. > Thanks David. Not sure I see the practicality of a rotary encoder. What > would be its trigger? Magnetic? Optical (e.g IR) ? Reflective? And the > mechanics of all that? And how would the position be displayed? Plus > extra code (see my reply to Gene re the aTTiny85.) > > But I'm very interested in your other suggestion. Could you say a bit > more about it please? Are you talking about printing (mirrored) onto a > transparent sheet with an inkjet printer? Special non-smudge? > > Terry > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org

A rotary encoder would give you as many positions as you like, and clicks. You'd need a display to show what position it's in. On Thu, Dec 12, 2024 at 6:19 PM Harvey white via Discuss < discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote: > I've done front panels by printing (inkjet or color laser) on a > transparency in reverse. Flipping it over lets you read through the > transparency, which provides protection for the printing. > > You can also do a fake silk screen for a PC board with the same mechanism. > > Harvey > > > On 12/12/2024 6:30 PM, Terry via Discuss wrote: > > On Thu, 12 Dec 2024 13:18:50 -0800, you wrote: > > > >> On Thu, Dec 12, 2024 at 10:55?AM Terry via Discuss < > >> discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote: > >> > >>> BACKGROUND: > >>> For a Christmas gift I'm making an electronics project in a neat > >>> enclosure. It includes the facility for choosing one of 24 options. > That > >>> currently uses a 12 way rotary switch, requiring wires to 12 inputs of > a > >>> micro controller unit (MCU). That works. But I want to reduce the size > >>> of the MCU, the wiring, and the case. I've therefore redesigned it so > >>> that the initial choice is instead made by turning the knob of a > >>> potentiometer to one of 24 angles. That works too. But I'm seeking help > >>> on (at least!) labelling the knob positions please. > >>> > >>> I could relearn some Inkscape or perhaps use my familiar PaintShop Pro. > >>> And stick the paper or card result around the knob. But I’m considering > >>> OpenSCAD, partly because that will let me play with my Ender 3 Pro 3D > >>> printer. But it would also deliver a finished and labelled knob as the > >>> end result. And the basis for other future projects (my hobby). > >>> > >> Veering off topic: > >> I'm surprised you aren't using a rotary encoder if you are worried about > >> the number of wires > >> > https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4220F-S0024/4499660 > >> - $2.20 something like this gives you clear clockwise/counter clockwise > >> signals, so as long as the device has power it can just add or subtract > to > >> get to the desired setting. > >> > >> A common technique is to print the numbers, mirror image, onto > >> transparency, so when the transparent plastic is cut to size and > attached > >> it protects the ink on the underside. > > Thanks David. Not sure I see the practicality of a rotary encoder. What > > would be its trigger? Magnetic? Optical (e.g IR) ? Reflective? And the > > mechanics of all that? And how would the position be displayed? Plus > > extra code (see my reply to Gene re the aTTiny85.) > > > > But I'm very interested in your other suggestion. Could you say a bit > > more about it please? Are you talking about printing (mirrored) onto a > > transparent sheet with an inkjet printer? Special non-smudge? > > > > Terry > > _______________________________________________ > > OpenSCAD mailing list > > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org > -- K1FZY (WA4TPW) SK 9/29/37-4/13/15

 I've done front panels by printing (inkjet or color laser) on a
 transparency in reverse.  Flipping it over lets you read through the
 transparency, which provides protection for the printing.

 You can also do a fake silk screen for a PC board with the same
 mechanism.

 Harvey


 On 12/12/2024 6:30 PM, Terry via Discuss wrote:

 options. That

 inputs of a

 the size

 redesigned it so

 seeking help

 PaintShop Pro.

 considering

 Pro 3D

 knob as the

 worried about

 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4220F-S0024/4499660

 clockwise

 subtract to

 and attached

 encoder. What

 And the

 a bit

 onto a

 _______________________________________________
 OpenSCAD mailing list
 To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org

I've used push button BCD switches in various projects. Not sure what the Amazon quality is like search for 'bcd switches'. this site has an example of their use https://www.clounce.com/electronics/bcd-switch . Simple to install, has the 'display ' built in. On 13/12/2024 03:20, david vanhorn via Discuss wrote: > A rotary encoder would give you as many positions as you like, and clicks. > You'd need a display to show what position it's in. > > On Thu, Dec 12, 2024 at 6:19 PM Harvey white via Discuss > <discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote: > > I've done front panels by printing (inkjet or color laser) on a > transparency in reverse.  Flipping it over lets you read through the > transparency, which provides protection for the printing. > > You can also do a fake silk screen for a PC board with the same > mechanism. > > Harvey > > > On 12/12/2024 6:30 PM, Terry via Discuss wrote: > > On Thu, 12 Dec 2024 13:18:50 -0800, you wrote: > > > >> On Thu, Dec 12, 2024 at 10:55?AM Terry via Discuss < > >> discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote: > >> > >>> BACKGROUND: > >>> For a Christmas gift I'm making an electronics project in a neat > >>> enclosure. It includes the facility for choosing one of 24 > options. That > >>> currently uses a 12 way rotary switch, requiring wires to 12 > inputs of a > >>> micro controller unit (MCU). That works. But I want to reduce > the size > >>> of the MCU, the wiring, and the case. I've therefore > redesigned it so > >>> that the initial choice is instead made by turning the knob of a > >>> potentiometer to one of 24 angles. That works too. But I'm > seeking help > >>> on (at least!) labelling the knob positions please. > >>> > >>> I could relearn some Inkscape or perhaps use my familiar > PaintShop Pro. > >>> And stick the paper or card result around the knob. But I’m > considering > >>> OpenSCAD, partly because that will let me play with my Ender 3 > Pro 3D > >>> printer. But it would also deliver a finished and labelled > knob as the > >>> end result. And the basis for other future projects (my hobby). > >>> > >> Veering off topic: > >> I'm surprised you aren't using a rotary encoder if you are > worried about > >> the number of wires > >> > https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4220F-S0024/4499660 > >> - $2.20 something like this gives you clear clockwise/counter > clockwise > >> signals, so as long as the device has power it can just add or > subtract to > >> get to the desired setting. > >> > >> A common technique is to print the numbers, mirror image, onto > >> transparency, so when the transparent plastic is cut to size > and attached > >> it protects the ink on the underside. > > Thanks David. Not sure I see the practicality of a rotary > encoder. What > > would be its trigger? Magnetic? Optical (e.g IR) ? Reflective? > And the > > mechanics of all that? And how would the position be displayed? Plus > > extra code (see my reply to Gene re the aTTiny85.) > > > > But I'm very interested in your other suggestion. Could you say > a bit > > more about it please? Are you talking about printing (mirrored) > onto a > > transparent sheet with an inkjet printer? Special non-smudge? > > > > Terry > > _______________________________________________ > > OpenSCAD mailing list > > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org > > > > -- > K1FZY (WA4TPW) SK  9/29/37-4/13/15 > > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email todiscuss-leave@lists.openscad.org

Thanks Ray, very useful ideas for future projects. My pots are all legacy stuff, mostly already used and with short remaining spindle lengths. The case for the project under discussion is already prepared, holes included, and space within is small. The MP3 method I described for reliably choosing one of 24 pot positions looks satisfactory so far. And if I stick on a flat paper dial like the one shown below, derived from Jordan's code, I may even be able to dispense with that complication, fun though it is. Viewed on my PC screen at about 35 mm in diameter it's readable. I'll shortly inkjet print it. After earlier feedback I'm hesitating about trying option 2 (labels on the knob), although still looking for an excuse to power up my 3D printer. ;-) https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/v1twya85yv7426i7usy1s/Dial-Flat-3.jpg?rlkey=f1rljspbmjq3cnl20r0cpmsoj&raw=1 -------------------- On Fri, 13 Dec 2024 00:41:19 +0000, you wrote: >If you have a surface mounted pot, then mount it on a pcb, and a hole in >the case for the shaft and knob on the outside. You can fit a disc on >the shaft, below the front panel, with the printed numbers showing >through a hole in the panel, you can make the disc large enough to see >the numbers., add detents if you wish. Cover the front panel with a >piece of acrylic sheet. > >if you haven't got a surface mounted pot, then print or fabricate a >bracket/whatever, to hold the pot below the front panel. > >But you can get for not many pennies, small OLED displays, and software >to run them on arduino/whatever. > >On 12/12/2024 21:45, Terry via Discuss wrote: >> On Thu, 12 Dec 2024 19:54:58 +0000, you wrote: >> >>> You could make a potentiometer click by printing a wheel with 24 detents >>> and pushing a small ball against it with a spring. You could have that >>> mounted behind the panel as most pots have long shafts that you cut to >>> length. >> Thanks, that's a clever idea! I may well try it for a future project >> that's dependent on a pot's position. But for this particular one I've >> used another novel solution. The position reached within a set time >> after power up is accepted, and spoken by an MP3 player. It's working >> quite well on test. So I'm now hoping to use Jordan's labels (on either >> the case or knob perimeter), PLUS a 1 sec playback of that position.## >> >> I'm not sure mounting the detent **inside** would be possible. Apart >> from space restrictions, how would the pot spindle then be easily >> secured to the case with its thread and bolt? On top seems the way to >> go. >> >> ## Which would be way OTT; only possible because the project ('Sleep >> Fader') has the main function of **playing** the choice of 24 MP3s. >> >> P.S: My original 12W rotary switch approach had no labels, relying on >> counting from position 1 (plus a supplementary toggle switch to get >> choices 13 to 24.) >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org >_______________________________________________ >OpenSCAD mailing list >To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org

Thanks Harvey, similar suggestion from David which I'm following up. At a quick look, so many product choices. A few in my screenshot. Some apparently don't work with certain printer brands. What's your inkjet printer brand and which sheets do you use? Terry On Thu, 12 Dec 2024 21:19:15 -0400, you wrote: >I've done front panels by printing (inkjet or color laser) on a >transparency in reverse.  Flipping it over lets you read through the >transparency, which provides protection for the printing. > >You can also do a fake silk screen for a PC board with the same mechanism. > >Harvey

I used both HP and Canon (I think), and got tired of replacing 24 dollar color cartridges after a few months of non-use.  I switched over to a color laser (Canon) and haven't looked back.  The transparencies I used were the generic variety for the most part, or the brand of the printer I used. Not too helpful, but note that the ones for color laser and color inkjet are not the same. Harvey On 12/13/2024 8:59 AM, Terry via Discuss wrote: > Thanks Harvey, similar suggestion from David which I'm following up. > > At a quick look, so many product choices. A few in my screenshot. Some > apparently don't work with certain printer brands. What's your inkjet > printer brand and which sheets do you use? > > Terry > > On Thu, 12 Dec 2024 21:19:15 -0400, you wrote: > >> I've done front panels by printing (inkjet or color laser) on a >> transparency in reverse.  Flipping it over lets you read through the >> transparency, which provides protection for the printing. >> >> You can also do a fake silk screen for a PC board with the same mechanism. >> >> Harvey > > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org