Hello! i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one exemplary, bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer, screwing the nut on the screw was quite hard.... so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not change the overall geometry of the screw? i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ latest version, but i didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter? -- ciao Bruno =========================================== http://nohkumado.eu/, <http://bboett.free.fr>http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/, <http://bboett.free.fr> http://aikido.zorn.free.fr

If you scale X & Y but keep Z the same I think it might work. The screw will then have the same pitch but a smaller diameter. On Sun, 21 Jul 2019 at 21:05, Bruno Boettcher <bboett@gmail.com> wrote: > Hello! > > i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one exemplary, > bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer, screwing the nut on > the screw was quite hard.... > so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not > change the overall geometry of the screw? > i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ latest version, but i > didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter? > > -- > ciao > Bruno > > =========================================== > http://nohkumado.eu/, <http://bboett.free.fr>http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/, > <http://bboett.free.fr> > http://aikido.zorn.free.fr > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > Discuss@lists.openscad.org > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org >

You can make a threaded joint more tolerant by either increasing the diameter of the nut (because you’ll be subtracting the thread you create from the exterior sides of the nut) or by decreasing the diameter of the bolt… or a bit of both. As long as you don’t change the pitch of the thread then you are simply creating more space between the mating edges of the thread on the nut and bolt. > On Jul 21, 2019, at 1:04 PM, Bruno Boettcher <bboett@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hello! > > i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one exemplary, bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer, screwing the nut on the screw was quite hard.... > so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not change the overall geometry of the screw? > i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ <http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/> latest version, but i didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter? > > -- > ciao > Bruno > > =========================================== > http://nohkumado.eu/, <http://bboett.free.fr/>http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/, <http://bboett.free.fr/> > http://aikido.zorn.free.fr <http://aikido.zorn.free.fr/> > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > Discuss@lists.openscad.org > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org

I wonder how much the printer accuracy applies here. Yesterday  Steven Dick posted mating parts to see how well they fit. I didn't print that one. A couple of days ago Revar Desmera posted a XY printer slop test block he designed. I printed that one and found that same size parts do not slide together as I expected. On my printer .15 difference slides together nicely with just a little play while .10 is a snug fit (almost Lego style) and .05 I think I  could get them together (hammer maybe) but I fear they won't come apart again. Lee On 7/21/2019 4:14 PM, Hugo Jackson wrote: > You can make a threaded joint more tolerant by either increasing the > diameter of the nut (because you’ll be subtracting the thread you > create from the exterior sides of the nut) or by decreasing the > diameter of the bolt… or a bit of both. As long as you don’t change > the pitch of the thread then you are simply creating more space > between the mating edges of the thread on the nut and bolt. > >> On Jul 21, 2019, at 1:04 PM, Bruno Boettcher <bboett@gmail.com >> <mailto:bboett@gmail.com>> wrote: >> >> Hello! >> >> i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one >> exemplary, bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer, >> screwing the nut on the screw was quite hard.... >> so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not >> change the overall geometry of the screw? >> i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ latest version, but i >> didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter? >> >> -- >> ciao >> Bruno >> >> =========================================== >> http://nohkumado.eu/, >> <http://bboett.free.fr/>http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/, >> <http://bboett.free.fr/> >> http://aikido.zorn.free.fr <http://aikido.zorn.free.fr/> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> Discuss@lists.openscad.org <mailto:Discuss@lists.openscad.org> >> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org > > > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > Discuss@lists.openscad.org > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org

Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You won't get a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and better in any hardware store. -- Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/

I've recently printed a differential screw from Thingiverse <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2279953> simply as an experiment and an experience. It may be the quality of the printer and the current state of its tuning, but the three components of the differential screw assembled with little difficulty. I slathered on a bit of wet fifty micron garnet and cranked it around a few times to smooth out the surfaces a bit, but otherwise it operated quite well. The creator, tkircher, used OpenSCAD and a threads library to generate the parts. For this project, strength isn't a factor and I doubt I'd be able to find an off-the-shelf item that demonstrates any better the concept and execution of differential screws. <http://forum.openscad.org/file/t824/db79f58a706130e974b490e841eb8036_preview_featured.jpg> The photo above is not mine, although I linked a "make" in tkircher's Thingiverse post. -- Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/

On 2019-07-23 21:42, fred_dot_u via Discuss wrote: > I've recently printed a differential screw from Thingiverse > <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2279953> simply as an experiment > and an > experience. I also made an M16 bolt & nut some time ago as an experiment https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1445033 I agree this is mostly for fun and to see how good it can be. This one worked out quite well. Carsten Arnholm

10 years ago I would have agreed with you -- don't bother printing threads, just use metal inserts or self-thread with a metal screw. Today with my Ender 3, I've seen enough threaded parts that worked (much to my surprise) that I can't agree anymore. If you make the threads big enough with the right tolerances (I agree with previous poster, ~0.15mm is about right), threads work. If you look at industrial thread standards (for example, the M* thread standards), you'll find they include precise tolerances between nuts and bolts. I've printed many copies of thing:3494496 (threaded container and lid) which has come out flawlessly every time with no post processing or polishing. 9 years ago with my Makerbot cupcake, I printed thing:1384 whose threads barely worked, and after playing with it for a few weeks (working it back and forth), it started to work better. Hobbyist grade FDM has come a long way since then. (For reference, my cupcake's sliding part tolerance in XY was about 0.25mm. Z was a lot worse. My ender's is around 0.1-0.15mm, Z is probably better.) On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 3:31 PM Troberg <troberg.anders@gmail.com> wrote: > > Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You won't get > a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your > constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods > instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not > reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and > better in any hardware store. > > > > -- > Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/ > > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > Discuss@lists.openscad.org > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org

I think I made the first printed thread in the Reprap world: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/09/screw-top-pot.html. I don't use them in place of metal fasteners but they are useful for containers and interfacing with pop bottles, etc. Tapping printed holes also works well. On Wed, 24 Jul 2019 at 11:25, Steven Dick <kg4ydw@gmail.com> wrote: > 10 years ago I would have agreed with you -- don't bother printing > threads, just use metal inserts or self-thread with a metal screw. > Today with my Ender 3, I've seen enough threaded parts that worked > (much to my surprise) that I can't agree anymore. > If you make the threads big enough with the right tolerances (I agree > with previous poster, ~0.15mm is about right), threads work. > > If you look at industrial thread standards (for example, the M* thread > standards), you'll find they include precise tolerances between nuts > and bolts. > > I've printed many copies of thing:3494496 (threaded container and lid) > which has come out flawlessly every time with no post processing or > polishing. > 9 years ago with my Makerbot cupcake, I printed thing:1384 whose > threads barely worked, and after playing with it for a few weeks > (working it back and forth), it started to work better. > Hobbyist grade FDM has come a long way since then. > > (For reference, my cupcake's sliding part tolerance in XY was about > 0.25mm. Z was a lot worse. My ender's is around 0.1-0.15mm, Z is > probably better.) > > On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 3:31 PM Troberg <troberg.anders@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You > won't get > > a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your > > constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods > > instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not > > reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and > > better in any hardware store. > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > OpenSCAD mailing list > > Discuss@lists.openscad.org > > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org > > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > Discuss@lists.openscad.org > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org >

hello! well first of all, a very big thank you all for all the help and patience you showed ! you can admire (heu hrrrmmm) the actual (working) state of the thing on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3769527! and the threads work like a charm! would't change them for some metal nuts, the fact that i made them quite big, makes for a really fast open and close system, and they are still steep enough to not budge when under the tremors of my printer.... on to the next project! ciao Bruno Am Mi., 24. Juli 2019 um 14:18 Uhr schrieb nop head <nop.head@gmail.com>: > I think I made the first printed thread in the Reprap world: > http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/09/screw-top-pot.html. > > I don't use them in place of metal fasteners but they are useful for > containers and interfacing with pop bottles, etc. Tapping printed holes > also works well. > > On Wed, 24 Jul 2019 at 11:25, Steven Dick <kg4ydw@gmail.com> wrote: > >> 10 years ago I would have agreed with you -- don't bother printing >> threads, just use metal inserts or self-thread with a metal screw. >> Today with my Ender 3, I've seen enough threaded parts that worked >> (much to my surprise) that I can't agree anymore. >> If you make the threads big enough with the right tolerances (I agree >> with previous poster, ~0.15mm is about right), threads work. >> >> If you look at industrial thread standards (for example, the M* thread >> standards), you'll find they include precise tolerances between nuts >> and bolts. >> >> I've printed many copies of thing:3494496 (threaded container and lid) >> which has come out flawlessly every time with no post processing or >> polishing. >> 9 years ago with my Makerbot cupcake, I printed thing:1384 whose >> threads barely worked, and after playing with it for a few weeks >> (working it back and forth), it started to work better. >> Hobbyist grade FDM has come a long way since then. >> >> (For reference, my cupcake's sliding part tolerance in XY was about >> 0.25mm. Z was a lot worse. My ender's is around 0.1-0.15mm, Z is >> probably better.) >> >> On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 3:31 PM Troberg <troberg.anders@gmail.com> wrote: >> > >> > Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You >> won't get >> > a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your >> > constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods >> > instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not >> > reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and >> > better in any hardware store. >> > >> > >> > >> > -- >> > Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/ >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > OpenSCAD mailing list >> > Discuss@lists.openscad.org >> > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org >> >> _______________________________________________ >> OpenSCAD mailing list >> Discuss@lists.openscad.org >> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org >> > _______________________________________________ > OpenSCAD mailing list > Discuss@lists.openscad.org > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org > -- ciao Bruno =========================================== http://nohkumado.eu/, <http://bboett.free.fr>http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/, <http://bboett.free.fr> http://aikido.zorn.free.fr