My first print, my first desappointment
The code below is a basic housing for an LED and an LDR. I sent it out to
print and was expecting to receive a solid object as this one (central cut)
:
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16449/LED_LDR_solid.jpg
Instead, I got almost 2 separate pieces. The plate was lightly stuck to the
cube (due to printing heat) and it came off immediately...
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16449/LED_LDR_not.jpg
Could you tell me what's wrong with my design or is it my printing service
who screwed up ?
//Couple LED/LDR (gray levels detector)
$fn=50;
difference() {
union() {
cube([8,15,10.5],center=true); // body lodging
// fastening plate
translate([0,0,-5.25]) {
hull() {
translate([-6,-9.5, 0]) // top left
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([-6, 9.5, 0]) // top right
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([ 6, 9.5, 0]) // bottom right
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([ 6,-9.5, 0]) // bottom left
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
} // hull
} // translate
} // union
translate([0,3.5,1])
cylinder(10.5,r=3,center=true); // LED lodging
translate([0,-3.5,1])
cylinder(10.5,r=3,center=true); // LDR lodging
union() {
// inner holes
translate([0,-5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,-2,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,4.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,2.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
// fastening holes
translate([7,0,-5])
cylinder(4,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([-7,0,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([0,10.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([0,-10.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
} // union
} // difference()
Thanks for any input. Dan
--
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I don't see any issue with your OpenSCAD model. The walls arround the LED
and LDR lodging seems a bit scarce. The joint between the block and the
plate is certainly the area of greatest stress. You might add some fillet
there.
2016-03-12 15:50 GMT-03:00 stressless wintoweb@gmail.com:
The code below is a basic housing for an LED and an LDR. I sent it out to
print and was expecting to receive a solid object as this one (central cut)
:
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16449/LED_LDR_solid.jpg
Instead, I got almost 2 separate pieces. The plate was lightly stuck to the
cube (due to printing heat) and it came off immediately...
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16449/LED_LDR_not.jpg
Could you tell me what's wrong with my design or is it my printing service
who screwed up ?
//Couple LED/LDR (gray levels detector)
$fn=50;
difference() {
union() {
cube([8,15,10.5],center=true); // body lodging
// fastening plate
translate([0,0,-5.25]) {
hull() {
translate([-6,-9.5, 0]) // top left
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([-6, 9.5, 0]) // top right
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([ 6, 9.5, 0]) // bottom right
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([ 6,-9.5, 0]) // bottom left
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
} // hull
} // translate
} // union
translate([0,3.5,1])
cylinder(10.5,r=3,center=true); // LED lodging
translate([0,-3.5,1])
cylinder(10.5,r=3,center=true); // LDR lodging
union() {
// inner holes
translate([0,-5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,-2,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,4.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,2.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
// fastening holes
translate([7,0,-5])
cylinder(4,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([-7,0,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([0,10.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([0,-10.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
} // union
} // difference()
Thanks for any input. Dan
--
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I printed it using PLA filament, and it was reasonably strong. Such a
small part might be stronger if printed on a resin printer; and a
fillet, as was previously suggested, would also be helpful. With walls
so thin, and with printed PLA beads around 0.35 mm, you might only have
3-4 beads of filament used to make each wall. Still, the part should
not have come apart easily. What did you pay for the print? I would
have charged $0.25
Jon
On 3/12/2016 1:50 PM, stressless wrote:
The code below is a basic housing for an LED and an LDR. I sent it out to
print and was expecting to receive a solid object as this one (central cut)
:
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16449/LED_LDR_solid.jpg
Instead, I got almost 2 separate pieces. The plate was lightly stuck to the
cube (due to printing heat) and it came off immediately...
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16449/LED_LDR_not.jpg
Could you tell me what's wrong with my design or is it my printing service
who screwed up ?
//Couple LED/LDR (gray levels detector)
$fn=50;
difference() {
union() {
cube([8,15,10.5],center=true); // body lodging
// fastening plate
translate([0,0,-5.25]) {
hull() {
translate([-6,-9.5, 0]) // top left
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([-6, 9.5, 0]) // top right
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([ 6, 9.5, 0]) // bottom right
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
translate([ 6,-9.5, 0]) // bottom left
cylinder(h=1,r=4);
} // hull
} // translate
} // union
translate([0,3.5,1])
cylinder(10.5,r=3,center=true); // LED lodging
translate([0,-3.5,1])
cylinder(10.5,r=3,center=true); // LDR lodging
union() {
// inner holes
translate([0,-5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,-2,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,4.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
translate([0,2.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=0.5,center=true);
// fastening holes
translate([7,0,-5])
cylinder(4,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([-7,0,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([0,10.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
translate([0,-10.5,-5])
cylinder(3,r=1.6,center=true);
} // union
} // difference()
Thanks for any input. Dan
--
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On 03/12/2016 07:50 PM, stressless wrote:
Could you tell me what's wrong with my design or is it my printing
service who screwed up ?
Looking at the STL files created from both 2015.03 release version and
the nightly builds, I can see no issues at all in Blender.
For double checking, you could share the actual STL file that was
sent out and maybe have a look at which version of OpenSCAD you are
using.
As already said, the contact area between the block and the bottom
plate is very small, so that might be a reason for breaking at this
point.
ciao,
Torsten.
If it was a home style FDM printer (perhaps via 3DHubs etc) and they didn't
have the temperatures dialed-in, layer separation could easily occur. If it
was in ABS a dip in acetone can help a bit with bonding.
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On 3/12/2016 7:50 PM, stressless wrote:
The code below is a basic housing for an LED and an LDR. I sent it out to
This prints without a problem in ABS, fairly strong.. I would design it
bit differently (to increase part strength) but on the other note (as
none of these anyhow is related to openscad) are you sure you want this
"as is" ? most plastic using for 3d print (including black abs) are
fairly transparent to light, especially to IR so burring leds deep into
the plastic ain't really helping you. I'm using similar setup but I push
a piece of alu tubing and then I have leds inside those (ir led and ir
diode I assume you are using here?) .. with 3d printed part, what you
can easily do is just make a slit between the two holes and use alu
tape, push trough slit to have alu barrier between the two and then wrap
the alu around the plastic to keep anything entering from the sides .
adding fillets on the Z axis edges would make that tape adhere better
Thanks to all for the generous comments. These picture clearly shows that
there is no binding at all between the plate and the block. These parts are
totally useless.
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16457/housing_3d.jpg
I answer separately to each of your comments
/Ronaldo/: You are right. Too thin and no filet. My problem is that I don't
know anything about printers capabilities and properties and don't know what
to avoid when constructing. Everything looks so good on Openscad. Next time,
before printing, I will share my project on this list for the community's
comments.
/jon_bondy/ : I printed through "3D Hub" and the printer advertises an "UP
mini" (?), black ABS. I paid $4.80 for 10 units, plus $5 setup (printed in
Switzerland. As I am learning, I selected the cheapest(...), nearest
printer).
/tp3/ : Thanks for the thorough testing. I use OpenScad v.2015.03-2. Here is
the *.stl :
couple_LED_LDR_2_f.stl
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16457/couple_LED_LDR_2_f.stl
/MichaelAtOz/ : FDM printer ? I don't know. Yes, "3D Hub". Thanks for the
acetone tip.
/arhi/ : Fairly strong ? You must have a better printer than the "UP mini"
used.
(Off subject. Sorry) Thanks for the tips in building the sensor. I use a
white LED and a flat Light Dependent Resistor. The latter is buried deep to
avoid catching stray light. Not being able to use my print, I came up with
this. The two var. res. allow me to adjust the brightness and the divider,
to adapt the readings to various ambiant lightings. I'll try your solution
using IR though.
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16457/gray_reader.jpg
Lastly, if anyone knows of a good resource for a newbie to learn about 3D
printer capabilities and materials, I'd appreciate the link. Also, I find
filleting difficult to do. Any recommendation/tip or good lib. on the
subject ?
Thanks again to all.
Dan
--
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On 3/13/2016 11:56 AM, stressless wrote:
These picture clearly shows that there is no binding at all between the plate and the block.
the UP! slicer has some issues with infills of small areas like these if
you print with higher layer and it's what was done here most probably
(I'd say from the pic they went to 0.25 or even 0.3mm layer) but what is
more important issue here is I'd say they are not using original UP!
filament and in order to use "custom" filament they had to modify the
UP! to tweak temperature manually (either by hacking libusb.dll or by
hacking the PT100 sensor by adding a resistor in series) as original UP!
filament is extruded at some insane temperatures - 265-275C and normal
ABS burns and drips at those temps so you have to lover the temp down
... they either poorly tweaked the temp or they are doing the "bad
tweaking" by telling the UP! slicer it's printing PLA while printing ABS
... in any case - they printed too cold hence the result. It is not
your design error, it's purely fault of the print house.
you could (and should) add some fillets to make the part stronger but
this is totally acceptable design
/arhi/ : Fairly strong ? You must have a better printer than the "UP mini"
used.
I actually printed it on UP! 2 Plus :D that's the one running behind my
back so was fastest to test on :D
(Off subject. Sorry) Thanks for the tips in building the sensor. I use a
white LED and a flat Light Dependent Resistor. The latter is buried deep to
avoid catching stray light. Not being able to use my print, I came up with
this. The two var. res. allow me to adjust the brightness and the divider,
to adapt the readings to various ambiant lightings. I'll try your solution
using IR though.
http://forum.openscad.org/file/n16457/gray_reader.jpg
For white light it's pretty non-transparent so it should work, I never
tried, I try to use IR led + IR diode or IR transistor, apart from not
being visible I kinda have better control over it.. this flat LDR's like
you have on the pic I have serious issues with and stopped using them
ages ago, they are different, every single one has it's own curve so for
anything but "is there light" with a custom level adjustment they are
useless :( ... for any "measurements" in robotics I use IR.... and very
similar housing like yours just with a slit between the two so I can fit
aluminium tape.
Lastly, if anyone knows of a good resource for a newbie to learn about 3D
printer capabilities and materials, I'd appreciate the link.
best way to learn is get one yourself and play with it :D
other then that, when you have a design, before giving the printer a
final design you ask him how "printable" it is and what would (s)he
change to make it more printable/durable/strong ... other then that -
looking at "who made what" (not who design, but who made what) on sites
like youmagine, thingiverse... can give you some insight in what's
difficult (looks like crap) and what's easy (lot of ppl printed it)
Also, I find
filleting difficult to do. Any recommendation/tip or good lib. on the
subject ?
would be a good feature in openscad - select edge, add fillet :D .. attm
the best I know how to do is add a (cube minus cylinder) but it works
only for straight edges (like for your object) .. but I'm not openscad
master (solidWorks is still my poison)
just to show what I'm talking about, without any tweaking (this I would
generally call non-successful print because it is bit overextruded but
it's hard to control this cheap filament, not very consistent in size)
but .. out of the printer (as I said UP! 2 Plus, that's the small one
near me, easiest to test these small things, chinese el cheapo filament):
http://elco.crsndoo.com/phone_uploads/DSC_1649-1.jpg
and this is me trying to break the top part off the bottom plate
(delamination you experienced with your parts):
http://elco.crsndoo.com/phone_uploads/DSC_1650-1.jpg
as you can see the part broke but it didn't want to delaminate ... so
while this print is not beautiful it would work 100% and not break in usage
Thanks or all the trouble making these test parts arhi.
It's surprising that you could break the plate without the block coming
apart !
Besides the fact that my design is flawed (no fillet, too thin walls, etc.),
your prints demonstrate (I think) that my printer did not set the right
temperature. I'll submit my new design to him before printing. I'll order
one only test unit before printing a bunch.
I will redesign my housing using the weld() module submitted by osj1961 (see
his post in this thread).
As for the off-topic subject on the use of LED/LDR for my sensor, I agree
with you a 100% on the flat LDR subject. I'll go infrared as you suggested.
Thanks for all that.
Dan
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