NH
nop head
Sun, Jul 21, 2019 12:03 PM
Note I haven't tried solvent welding with it yet but I have dissolved PLA
with it and I use to clean my glass bed when printing PLA.
On Sat, 20 Jul 2019 at 16:23, Dan Shriver tabbydan@gmail.com wrote:
gewoods3 that works, and was stated before. nop_head was also reporting
ethyl acetate works; ethyl acetate has a MUCH lower to toxicity, and is
easier on the environment. You could probably substitute many other ester
solvents (though ethyl acetate is probably the least expensive). Solvent
welds will have a lower strength than a continuously cast part, but
considering PLA is not exactly known for durability probably a good option.
On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 11:04 AM gewoods3 gewoods3@gmail.com wrote:
Note I haven't tried solvent welding with it yet but I have dissolved PLA
with it and I use to clean my glass bed when printing PLA.
On Sat, 20 Jul 2019 at 16:23, Dan Shriver <tabbydan@gmail.com> wrote:
> gewoods3 that works, and was stated before. nop_head was also reporting
> ethyl acetate works; ethyl acetate has a MUCH lower to toxicity, and is
> easier on the environment. You could probably substitute many other ester
> solvents (though ethyl acetate is probably the least expensive). Solvent
> welds will have a lower strength than a continuously cast part, but
> considering PLA is not exactly known for durability probably a good option.
>
> On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 11:04 AM gewoods3 <gewoods3@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I have not read this entire thread, so I hope this is not duplicate
>> information. The active ingredient for bonding PLA parts is
>> dichloromethane
>> or methylene chloride, same thing. Search "PLA dichloromethane". 3D Gloop
>> PLA (https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pla-gloop) and SCIGRIP 16 (Amazon) have
>> dichloromethane. I prefer SCIGRIP 16. Either of these products don''t just
>> glue PLA, they bond PLA as one part. 3D Gloop might send you a sample if
>> you
>> ask nicely.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OpenSCAD mailing list
>> Discuss@lists.openscad.org
>> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> Discuss@lists.openscad.org
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>
A
adrianv
Wed, Jan 22, 2020 2:28 AM
Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just printed
out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with the
defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny" pins
make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I would
pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and "standard"
ones.
There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such as
the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length. Shouldn't
these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
acwest wrote
The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's gear
cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation and
one
which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
enough
effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long with
a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
The fully customisable pins are at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
and the output options include a test socket you can print to try it...
The
code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL for
the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed the
pin in.
Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just printed
out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with the
defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny" pins
make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I would
pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and "standard"
ones.
There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such as
the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length. Shouldn't
these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
acwest wrote
> The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's gear
> cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
> There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation and
> one
> which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
> enough
> effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long with
> a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
> The fully customisable pins are at
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
> and the output options include a test socket you can print to try it...
> The
> code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL for
> the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed the
> pin in.
--
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
AC
A. Craig West
Wed, Jan 22, 2020 12:41 PM
I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my main
board.
Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the problem
is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
physical constraints
On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, avm4@cornell.edu wrote:
Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just printed
out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with
the
defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny"
pins
make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
would
pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and "standard"
ones.
There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such as
the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length. Shouldn't
these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
acwest wrote
The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's gear
cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation and
one
which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
enough
effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long
a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
The fully customisable pins are at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
and the output options include a test socket you can print to try it...
The
code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL for
the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed the
pin in.
I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my main
board.
Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the problem
is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
physical constraints
On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote:
> Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just printed
> out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with
> the
> defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny"
> pins
> make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
> tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
> would
> pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and "standard"
> ones.
>
> There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such as
> the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length. Shouldn't
> these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
> function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
>
>
> acwest wrote
> > The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's gear
> > cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
> > There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation and
> > one
> > which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
> > enough
> > effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long
> with
> > a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
> > The fully customisable pins are at
> > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
> > and the output options include a test socket you can print to try it...
> > The
> > code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL for
> > the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed the
> > pin in.
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> Discuss@lists.openscad.org
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>
A
adrianv
Wed, Jan 22, 2020 11:59 PM
I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with preload=0.2,
the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size. For
"tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so I
suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like is
it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having more
engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a 2d
model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of symmetry
makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
acwest wrote
I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my main
board.
Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the problem
is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
physical constraints
On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
printed
out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with
the
defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny"
pins
make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
would
pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
"standard"
ones.
There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such
as
the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
Shouldn't
these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
acwest wrote
The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation and
one
which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
enough
effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long
a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
The fully customisable pins are at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
and the output options include a test socket you can print to try it...
The
code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with preload=0.2,
the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size. For
"tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so I
suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like is
it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having more
engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a 2d
model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of symmetry
makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
acwest wrote
> I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
> offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my main
> board.
> Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the problem
> is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
> physical constraints
>
> On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
> avm4@
> > wrote:
>
>> Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
>> printed
>> out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with
>> the
>> defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny"
>> pins
>> make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
>> tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
>> would
>> pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
>> "standard"
>> ones.
>>
>> There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such
>> as
>> the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
>> Shouldn't
>> these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
>> function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
>>
>>
>> acwest wrote
>> > The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
>> gear
>> > cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
>> > There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation and
>> > one
>> > which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
>> > enough
>> > effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long
>> with
>> > a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
>> > The fully customisable pins are at
>> > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
>> > and the output options include a test socket you can print to try it...
>> > The
>> > code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
>> for
>> > the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
>> the
>> > pin in.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OpenSCAD mailing list
>>
> Discuss@.openscad
>> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> Discuss@.openscad
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
--
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
AC
A. Craig West
Thu, Jan 23, 2020 12:04 AM
The pin model has some historical artifacts in its development, as it was
originally based on the pin in Emmet's gear cube and hearts(the standard
pin still fits the sockets made for that)
I'm not sure what you mean by rotational symmetry in this case. I've been
arguing with kubernetes deployments all day so my brain may be a little
slow...
On Wed, 22 Jan 2020, 18:58 adrianv, avm4@cornell.edu wrote:
I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with
preload=0.2,
the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size. For
"tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so I
suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like
is
it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having
more
engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a 2d
model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of symmetry
makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
acwest wrote
I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my
board.
Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the problem
is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
physical constraints
On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
printed
out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with
the
defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny"
pins
make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
would
pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
"standard"
ones.
There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such
as
the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
Shouldn't
these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
acwest wrote
The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
one
which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
enough
effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long
a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
The fully customisable pins are at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
and the output options include a test socket you can print to try
The
code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
The pin model has some historical artifacts in its development, as it was
originally based on the pin in Emmet's gear cube and hearts(the standard
pin still fits the sockets made for that)
I'm not sure what you mean by rotational symmetry in this case. I've been
arguing with kubernetes deployments all day so my brain may be a little
slow...
On Wed, 22 Jan 2020, 18:58 adrianv, <avm4@cornell.edu> wrote:
> I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
> better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with
> preload=0.2,
> the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
> matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size. For
> "tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
> The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so I
> suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
>
> There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like
> is
> it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
> scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having
> more
> engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a 2d
> model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of symmetry
> makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
>
>
> acwest wrote
> > I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
> > offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my
> main
> > board.
> > Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the problem
> > is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
> > physical constraints
> >
> > On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
>
> > avm4@
>
> > > wrote:
> >
> >> Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
> >> printed
> >> out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and with
> >> the
> >> defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and "tiny"
> >> pins
> >> make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
> >> tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
> >> would
> >> pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
> >> "standard"
> >> ones.
> >>
> >> There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design, such
> >> as
> >> the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
> >> Shouldn't
> >> these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
> >> function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
> >>
> >>
> >> acwest wrote
> >> > The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
> >> gear
> >> > cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
> >> > There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation
> and
> >> > one
> >> > which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
> >> > enough
> >> > effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm long
> >> with
> >> > a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
> >> > The fully customisable pins are at
> >> > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
> >> > and the output options include a test socket you can print to try
> it...
> >> > The
> >> > code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
> >> for
> >> > the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
> >> the
> >> > pin in.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> OpenSCAD mailing list
> >>
>
> > Discuss@.openscad
>
> >> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OpenSCAD mailing list
>
> > Discuss@.openscad
>
> > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> Discuss@lists.openscad.org
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>
A
adrianv
Thu, Jan 23, 2020 2:26 AM
I suspected that historical artifacts could be an issue. I cleaned up the
code substantially and saw things like "difference" called with just one
child. (I can post my revised code, but note that it depends on BOSL2.)
By rotational symmetry I mean that the model could be generated by
rotate_extrude. Now obviously the pins have flat faces, so that isn't
rotationally symmetric, but the way the nubs are scaled on the pin also
breaks this symmetry.
acwest wrote
The pin model has some historical artifacts in its development, as it was
originally based on the pin in Emmet's gear cube and hearts(the standard
pin still fits the sockets made for that)
I'm not sure what you mean by rotational symmetry in this case. I've been
arguing with kubernetes deployments all day so my brain may be a little
slow...
On Wed, 22 Jan 2020, 18:58 adrianv, <
I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with
preload=0.2,
the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size.
For
"tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so
I
suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like
is
it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having
more
engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a
2d
model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of
symmetry
makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
acwest wrote
I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my
board.
Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the
is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
physical constraints
On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
printed
out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and
the
defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and
pins
make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
would
pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
"standard"
ones.
There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design,
as
the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
Shouldn't
these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
acwest wrote
The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
one
which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
enough
effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm
a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
The fully customisable pins are at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
and the output options include a test socket you can print to try
The
code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
The pin model has some historical artifacts in its development, as it was
originally based on the pin in Emmet's gear cube and hearts(the standard
pin still fits the sockets made for that)
I'm not sure what you mean by rotational symmetry in this case. I've been
arguing with kubernetes deployments all day so my brain may be a little
slow...
On Wed, 22 Jan 2020, 18:58 adrianv, <
I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with
preload=0.2,
the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size.
For
"tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so
I
suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like
is
it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having
more
engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a
2d
model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of
symmetry
makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
acwest wrote
I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my
board.
Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the
is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
physical constraints
On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
printed
out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and
the
defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and
pins
make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
would
pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
"standard"
ones.
There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design,
as
the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
Shouldn't
these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
acwest wrote
The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
one
which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
enough
effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm
a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
The fully customisable pins are at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
and the output options include a test socket you can print to try
The
code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
I suspected that historical artifacts could be an issue. I cleaned up the
code substantially and saw things like "difference" called with just one
child. (I can post my revised code, but note that it depends on BOSL2.)
By rotational symmetry I mean that the model could be generated by
rotate_extrude. Now obviously the pins have flat faces, so that isn't
rotationally symmetric, but the way the nubs are scaled on the pin also
breaks this symmetry.
acwest wrote
> The pin model has some historical artifacts in its development, as it was
> originally based on the pin in Emmet's gear cube and hearts(the standard
> pin still fits the sockets made for that)
> I'm not sure what you mean by rotational symmetry in this case. I've been
> arguing with kubernetes deployments all day so my brain may be a little
> slow...
>
> On Wed, 22 Jan 2020, 18:58 adrianv, <
> avm4@
> > wrote:
>
>> I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
>> better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with
>> preload=0.2,
>> the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
>> matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size.
>> For
>> "tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
>> The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so
>> I
>> suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
>>
>> There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like
>> is
>> it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
>> scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having
>> more
>> engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a
>> 2d
>> model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of
>> symmetry
>> makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
>>
>>
>> acwest wrote
>> > I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
>> > offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my
>> main
>> > board.
>> > Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the
>> problem
>> > is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
>> > physical constraints
>> >
>> > On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
>>
>> > avm4@
>>
>> > > wrote:
>> >
>> >> Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
>> >> printed
>> >> out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and
>> with
>> >> the
>> >> defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and
>> "tiny"
>> >> pins
>> >> make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
>> >> tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
>> >> would
>> >> pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
>> >> "standard"
>> >> ones.
>> >>
>> >> There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design,
>> such
>> >> as
>> >> the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
>> >> Shouldn't
>> >> these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
>> >> function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> acwest wrote
>> >> > The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
>> >> gear
>> >> > cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
>> >> > There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation
>> and
>> >> > one
>> >> > which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
>> >> > enough
>> >> > effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm
>> long
>> >> with
>> >> > a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
>> >> > The fully customisable pins are at
>> >> > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
>> >> > and the output options include a test socket you can print to try
>> it...
>> >> > The
>> >> > code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
>> >> for
>> >> > the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
>> >> the
>> >> > pin in.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> OpenSCAD mailing list
>> >>
>>
>> > Discuss@.openscad
>>
>> >> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>> >>
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > OpenSCAD mailing list
>>
>> > Discuss@.openscad
>>
>> > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OpenSCAD mailing list
>>
> Discuss@.openscad
>> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> Discuss@.openscad
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
acwest wrote
> The pin model has some historical artifacts in its development, as it was
> originally based on the pin in Emmet's gear cube and hearts(the standard
> pin still fits the sockets made for that)
> I'm not sure what you mean by rotational symmetry in this case. I've been
> arguing with kubernetes deployments all day so my brain may be a little
> slow...
>
> On Wed, 22 Jan 2020, 18:58 adrianv, <
> avm4@
> > wrote:
>
>> I tried printing a few test cases and found that with "small" got got a
>> better fit with preload=0.16. This was a tighter fit than with
>> preload=0.2,
>> the default, and also tighter than 0.1 and 0.0. I predicted this by
>> matching up the geometry for overlap compared to the "standard" size.
>> For
>> "tiny" they were all sort of loose, even the one I predicted to be tight.
>> The way the overlap occurs is pretty sensitive to the preload number, so
>> I
>> suppose it might be highly printer dependent.
>>
>> There are questions I have about design choices which seem obscure. Like
>> is
>> it intentional that the pin lacks rotational symmetry (because the nub is
>> scaled down by 0.9)? It seems like especially for smaller pins, having
>> more
>> engagement would be better. It might also be easier to code by doing a
>> 2d
>> model with rotate_extrude. On the other hand, maybe the lack of
>> symmetry
>> makes it easier for the pin to engage because it has a leading point.
>>
>>
>> acwest wrote
>> > I would probably have to look over my code again, my printer has been
>> > offline for a while due to reorganising my apartment and replacing my
>> main
>> > board.
>> > Generally increasing the preload should help, though. Some of the
>> problem
>> > is that the smaller pins can't generate as much spring force due to
>> > physical constraints
>> >
>> > On Tue, 21 Jan 2020, 21:27 adrianv, <
>>
>> > avm4@
>>
>> > > wrote:
>> >
>> >> Has anybody experimented with these pins or pins like them? I just
>> >> printed
>> >> out the pins at the 3 recommended sizes (in PLA on a Prusa MK3) and
>> with
>> >> the
>> >> defaults the "standard" pins make a snug joint. The "small" and
>> "tiny"
>> >> pins
>> >> make a looser joint with less tension. I wonder what adjustment would
>> >> tighten up the smaller pins (more preload? less clearance?), or how I
>> >> would
>> >> pick parameters for medium sized pins in between the "small" and
>> >> "standard"
>> >> ones.
>> >>
>> >> There are a few things I'm not sure I understand about the design,
>> such
>> >> as
>> >> the "preload" which both moves the nubs and shrinks the length.
>> >> Shouldn't
>> >> these be independent? (Shrinking the length seems like it should be a
>> >> function of clearance rather than another parameter.)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> acwest wrote
>> >> > The best way to find out how the snap pins work is to print Emmet's
>> >> gear
>> >> > cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946
>> >> > There are two versions of the hole inset, one which allows rotation
>> and
>> >> > one
>> >> > which is fixed. They hold very solidly, but can be pulled apart with
>> >> > enough
>> >> > effort. The smallest I have been able to make useful pins is 4mm
>> long
>> >> with
>> >> > a 2.5mm diameter, anything smaller than that is too fragile to use.
>> >> > The fully customisable pins are at
>> >> > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332,
>> >> > and the output options include a test socket you can print to try
>> it...
>> >> > The
>> >> > code generates an STL for the pin, which is printed flat, and an STL
>> >> for
>> >> > the socket, which is difference'd from the surface you want to embed
>> >> the
>> >> > pin in.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> OpenSCAD mailing list
>> >>
>>
>> > Discuss@.openscad
>>
>> >> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>> >>
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > OpenSCAD mailing list
>>
>> > Discuss@.openscad
>>
>> > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OpenSCAD mailing list
>>
> Discuss@.openscad
>> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> Discuss@.openscad
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
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