T
Terrypin
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 1:02 PM
My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical electronics
stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The latter could be
sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by far the majority
will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places. I’m currently only
at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions of (mainly)
thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have plain holes.
I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with a
cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get me
started would be much appreciated please!
Terry
--
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical electronics
stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The latter could be
sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by far the majority
will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places. I’m currently only
at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions of (mainly)
thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have plain holes.
I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with a
cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get me
started would be much appreciated please!
Terry
--
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
NH
nop head
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 1:08 PM
My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The
latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by
far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places.
I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions
of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have
plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with
a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get
me started would be much appreciated please!
Terry
Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive http://forum.openscad.org/
at Nabble.com.
OpenSCAD mailing list
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See https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2020/12/sinkholes.html. It is quite
complicated getting accurate countersinks due to the rounded staircase
nature of printed slopes.
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 at 14:02, Terrypin via Discuss <
discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote:
> My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
> electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The
> latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by
> far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places.
> I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions
> of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have
> plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
>
> What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
> for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with
> a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get
> me started would be much appreciated please!
>
> Terry
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive <http://forum.openscad.org/>
> at Nabble.com.
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
>
RW
Ron Wheeler
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 1:42 PM
Have you considered just using brass inserts with bolts?
These also make it possible to unbolt and close the lids many times
without stripping the threads of the hole.
It is also harder to over-torque an screw in a brass insert which is a
problem with bolts or screws directly screwed into plastic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR6OBlSzp7I is a very good video showing
their use and comparing the strength (pull and torque) of inserts and
direct plastic.
You may still want to counter-sink the bolts which takes you back to
your original question unless you use bolts that do not have a conical
shape at the top of the shaft or want to be able to use a wrench to
tighten or loosen the bolts.
Not countersinking the bolt into the removable piece makes the piece
stronger than lid where material has been removed from the lid for a
countersink.
On 2021-04-10 9:08 a.m., nop head wrote:
See https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2020/12/sinkholes.html
https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2020/12/sinkholes.html. It is quite
complicated getting accurate countersinks due to the rounded staircase
nature of printed slopes.
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 at 14:02, Terrypin via Discuss
<discuss@lists.openscad.org mailto:discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote:
My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with
lids. The latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched,
snap-fitted, etc. But by far the majority will be simply screwed
or bolted in two or four places. I’m currently only at the stage
of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions of (mainly) thingiverse
downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have plain holes.
I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a
countersunk one for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of
using Difference() with a cone, the latter derived from a tapered
cylinder? A small example to get me started would be much
appreciated please!
Terry
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Have you considered just using brass inserts with bolts?
These also make it possible to unbolt and close the lids many times
without stripping the threads of the hole.
It is also harder to over-torque an screw in a brass insert which is a
problem with bolts or screws directly screwed into plastic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR6OBlSzp7I is a very good video showing
their use and comparing the strength (pull and torque) of inserts and
direct plastic.
You may still want to counter-sink the bolts which takes you back to
your original question unless you use bolts that do not have a conical
shape at the top of the shaft or want to be able to use a wrench to
tighten or loosen the bolts.
Not countersinking the bolt into the removable piece makes the piece
stronger than lid where material has been removed from the lid for a
countersink.
On 2021-04-10 9:08 a.m., nop head wrote:
> See https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2020/12/sinkholes.html
> <https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2020/12/sinkholes.html>. It is quite
> complicated getting accurate countersinks due to the rounded staircase
> nature of printed slopes.
>
> On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 at 14:02, Terrypin via Discuss
> <discuss@lists.openscad.org <mailto:discuss@lists.openscad.org>> wrote:
>
> My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
> electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with
> lids. The latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched,
> snap-fitted, etc. But by far the majority will be simply screwed
> or bolted in two or four places. I’m currently only at the stage
> of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions of (mainly) thingiverse
> downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have plain holes.
> I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
>
> What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a
> countersunk one for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of
> using Difference() with a cone, the latter derived from a tapered
> cylinder? A small example to get me started would be much
> appreciated please!
>
> Terry
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive
> <http://forum.openscad.org/> at Nabble.com.
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
> <mailto:discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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--
Ron Wheeler
Artifact Software
438-345-3369
rwheeler@artifact-software.com
RV
Roel Vanhout
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 1:56 PM
I use the BOLTS library, linked from the openscad.org website under
'libraries', for such things. Find the right screw type and size, scale it
up a bit for some clearance, then use difference() to cut it out from the
part.
Cheers
On Sat, Apr 10, 2021, 15:03 Terrypin via Discuss discuss@lists.openscad.org
wrote:
My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The
latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by
far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places.
I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions
of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have
plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with
a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get
me started would be much appreciated please!
Terry
Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive http://forum.openscad.org/
at Nabble.com.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I use the BOLTS library, linked from the openscad.org website under
'libraries', for such things. Find the right screw type and size, scale it
up a bit for some clearance, then use difference() to cut it out from the
part.
Cheers
On Sat, Apr 10, 2021, 15:03 Terrypin via Discuss <discuss@lists.openscad.org>
wrote:
> My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
> electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The
> latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by
> far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places.
> I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions
> of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have
> plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
>
> What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
> for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with
> a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get
> me started would be much appreciated please!
>
> Terry
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive <http://forum.openscad.org/>
> at Nabble.com.
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
>
BC
Bob Carter
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 1:56 PM
This is what I use - but there is probably a library some where that I don’t know about!
difference(){
cube([10,10,10],true);
translate([0,0,-5]) screwHole (2,10,4,2);
}
module screwHole(r1,h1,r2,h2){
// r1 rad bottom of cone and the bolt hole
// r2 rad top of cone
// h1 full height of screw + cone
// h2 height of cone
// shaft first
cylinder(r=r1,h=h1);
// cone second
translate([0,0,h1-h2]) cylinder(r1=r1, r2=r2, h=h2);
}
On 10 Apr 2021, at 14:02, Terrypin via Discuss discuss@lists.openscad.org wrote:
My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places. I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get me started would be much appreciated please!
Terry
Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive http://forum.openscad.org/ at Nabble.com.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
This is what I use - but there is probably a library some where that I don’t know about!
difference(){
cube([10,10,10],true);
translate([0,0,-5]) screwHole (2,10,4,2);
}
module screwHole(r1,h1,r2,h2){
// r1 rad bottom of cone and the bolt hole
// r2 rad top of cone
// h1 full height of screw + cone
// h2 height of cone
// shaft first
cylinder(r=r1,h=h1);
// cone second
translate([0,0,h1-h2]) cylinder(r1=r1, r2=r2, h=h2);
}
> On 10 Apr 2021, at 14:02, Terrypin via Discuss <discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote:
>
> My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places. I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
>
> What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get me started would be much appreciated please!
>
> Terry
>
>
> Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive <http://forum.openscad.org/> at Nabble.com.
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
RW
Rogier Wolff
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 3:02 PM
On Sat, Apr 10, 2021 at 02:08:04PM +0100, nop head wrote:
Just aim for the head to sink into the top surface for say 0.5mm. That
gives you plenty of margin, and if the head ends up 0.2 mm higher than
expected, it's still sunk below the surface.
If you really want the top surface of the screw to be precisely flat,
trial and error would be my way-to-go. Make one box with 4 holes,
like above, then measure how deep the screws end up. And adjust the
deepness of the holes accordingly.
Also note that the top surface of your box will be "rounded" to your
layer height. So if you first make a box of 15mm height, and then
decide to make one 1.5 times larger, 22.5mm, then the "3mm below the
top surface will be off-by-0.1mm for sure! Even after "finding the
right offset".
Roger.
My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The
latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by
far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places.
I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions
of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have
plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with
a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get
me started would be much appreciated please!
Terry
Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive http://forum.openscad.org/
at Nabble.com.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** +31-15-2049110 **
** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: 27239233 **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going down
your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space shuttle.
On Sat, Apr 10, 2021 at 02:08:04PM +0100, nop head wrote:
> See https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2020/12/sinkholes.html. It is quite
> complicated getting accurate countersinks due to the rounded staircase
> nature of printed slopes.
Just aim for the head to sink into the top surface for say 0.5mm. That
gives you plenty of margin, and if the head ends up 0.2 mm higher than
expected, it's still sunk below the surface.
If you really want the top surface of the screw to be precisely flat,
trial and error would be my way-to-go. Make one box with 4 holes,
like above, then measure how deep the screws end up. And adjust the
deepness of the holes accordingly.
Also note that the top surface of your box will be "rounded" to your
layer height. So if you first make a box of 15mm height, and then
decide to make one 1.5 times larger, 22.5mm, then the "3mm below the
top surface will be off-by-0.1mm for sure! Even after "finding the
right offset".
Roger.
>
> On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 at 14:02, Terrypin via Discuss <
> discuss@lists.openscad.org> wrote:
>
> > My initial 3D printing focus is on small boxes for my practical
> > electronics stuff. Most are simply rectangular enclosures with lids. The
> > latter could be sliding, hinged, buckle-latched, snap-fitted, etc. But by
> > far the majority will be simply screwed or bolted in two or four places.
> > I’m currently only at the stage of just modifying the x,y and z dimensions
> > of (mainly) thingiverse downloads. But all of those I’ve found so far have
> > plain holes. I’d prefer to use countersunk screws or bolts.
> >
> > What would be the easiest way to convert a flat hole to a countersunk one
> > for an M3 screw please? Should I think in terms of using Difference() with
> > a cone, the latter derived from a tapered cylinder? A small example to get
> > me started would be much appreciated please!
> >
> > Terry
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> > Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive <http://forum.openscad.org/>
> > at Nabble.com.
> > _______________________________________________
> > OpenSCAD mailing list
> > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** +31-15-2049110 **
** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: 27239233 **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going down
your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space shuttle.
T
Terrypin
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 3:50 PM
Many thanks for this great set of very helpful replies. Pursuing the many
suggestions will keep me busy for a good while!
I’m determined to resist the temptation to reach for my Dremel :-)
--
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
Many thanks for this great set of very helpful replies. Pursuing the many
suggestions will keep me busy for a good while!
I’m determined to resist the temptation to reach for my Dremel :-)
--
Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
RW
Ray West
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 5:17 PM
Most small plastic cases I come across use small round headed pozidrive
selftappers, holes are counterbored. some have countersunk screws to
hold the pcb , but those holes are not countersunk (most likely to stop
pcb moving sideways).
On 10/04/2021 16:50, Terrypin via Discuss wrote:
Many thanks for this great set of very helpful replies. Pursuing the
many suggestions will keep me busy for a good while!
I’m determined to resist the temptation to reach for my Dremel :-)
Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive
http://forum.openscad.org/ at Nabble.com.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Most small plastic cases I come across use small round headed pozidrive
selftappers, holes are counterbored. some have countersunk screws to
hold the pcb , but those holes are not countersunk (most likely to stop
pcb moving sideways).
On 10/04/2021 16:50, Terrypin via Discuss wrote:
> Many thanks for this great set of very helpful replies. Pursuing the
> many suggestions will keep me busy for a good while!
>
> I’m determined to resist the temptation to reach for my Dremel :-)
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive
> <http://forum.openscad.org/> at Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
NH
nop head
Sat, Apr 10, 2021 5:33 PM
I have started using countersink screws where I want repeatable
positioning. E.g. to mount an extruder.
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 at 18:18, Ray West raywest@raywest.com wrote:
Most small plastic cases I come across use small round headed pozidrive
selftappers, holes are counterbored. some have countersunk screws to hold
the pcb , but those holes are not countersunk (most likely to stop pcb
moving sideways).
On 10/04/2021 16:50, Terrypin via Discuss wrote:
Many thanks for this great set of very helpful replies. Pursuing the many
suggestions will keep me busy for a good while!
I’m determined to resist the temptation to reach for my Dremel :-)
Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive http://forum.openscad.org/
at Nabble.com.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I have started using countersink screws where I want repeatable
positioning. E.g. to mount an extruder.
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 at 18:18, Ray West <raywest@raywest.com> wrote:
> Most small plastic cases I come across use small round headed pozidrive
> selftappers, holes are counterbored. some have countersunk screws to hold
> the pcb , but those holes are not countersunk (most likely to stop pcb
> moving sideways).
> On 10/04/2021 16:50, Terrypin via Discuss wrote:
>
> Many thanks for this great set of very helpful replies. Pursuing the many
> suggestions will keep me busy for a good while!
>
> I’m determined to resist the temptation to reach for my Dremel :-)
> ------------------------------
> Sent from the OpenSCAD mailing list archive <http://forum.openscad.org/>
> at Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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